S/Y C'est la vie

27^th August 2010

What a day. We waited for the wind to drop and late morning hoisted the anchor and started on our way to Samos. The sea was extremely bumpy and the wind very unpredictable. It was supposed to drop but we had gusts of 25 to 30 knots regularly and although we had hoisted the sails it was necessary to motor sail. The distance to Samos was 37 nM until the tip but what we had not realised was that to reach our destination of Pythagorion there was another 33Nm so all in all we were at sea for 10 and a half hours and travelled 60nm. After 3 hours into the journey the auto pilot refused to answer so for the rest of the journey it was good old fashioned hand steering which we took it in turns to do. To crown it all, on our approach to Pythagorion we suddenly saw winds of 25 knots and we had to anchor in the dark as we arrived at 22h30! This we achieved and it was two very tired souls that went to bed after a quick snack.

28thAugust 2010

We awoke bright and rested and were able to take in our surroundings. A large bay protected by a huge breakwater. The water was crystal clear and we sere surrounded by sailing yachts. After a little while the boats started leaving and we were able to move to a better anchorage before taking the dinghy into town to explore. We shopped buying things that we needed (including a Turkish courtesy flag and a new Greek one as our current is now falling to bits). After a quick lunch we returned to the boat and had a well deserved swim. Svein checked out the auto pilot and luckily all it needed was a new fuse. We then decided that the next island was not too far away and we had time to reach it before nightfall. We therefore lifted the anchor and left the island of Samos for Agathonisi. We are now leaving the Sporades islands and heading for the Dodancese islands. We were lucky with the wind and were able to sail for the better part of the journey. We reached the island in the early evening (before sundown) and were able to anchor in a bay not too far from the town. A quick swim and after taking a line ashore we took the dinghy into the village in order to find a taverna for dinner. We chose “Georg Tavern” and had the best and cheapest meal that we have eaten since our arrival in Greece a little over a year ago. Back to the boat and a night’s rest before moving on tomorrow.

29^th August 2010

After a gently morning swim we decided to move on and so hoisted the anchor late morning to head over to the island of Lipso. We had gently SW winds (head on) so motored all the way but on a sea that was like a millpond. We reached the bay of Sokoro in the early afternoon and once again anchored outside the harbour. An intriguing village that counts no less that 16 churches in and around the bay! Whilst we were in Komi we were told that anyone can build a church in their home town providing that no other church with the name already exists there. They are usually built by wealthy people in gratitude for their good fortune.

We will not be staying here long but will be moving further south tomorrow as we want to ensure that we are in a safe place before the meltemi, forecast for the middle of next week, blows up.

 26^th August 2010

Again a change of plan. The weather forecast was not good for heading south so we decided to take an extra day in Komi and spent it on the beach. Whilst we were sunbathing we were witness to a forest fire in the neighbouring bay which we had nearly gone in to to escape the strong winds. It was the gum trees burning and a helicopter and two fire fighting planes spent the afternoon fighting the flames. They were collecting water from the sea and dumping it on the flames and the surrounding countryside. It lasted well into the evening. As we were leaving the beach to return to the yacht we met up again with Dimitri and his sister. They had expressed an interest in visiting the yacht during our evening together the night before. We took them out to the boat and showed them around. On the way back to the beach the dinghy outboard started to play op so back they came and waited whilst Svein repaired it and was able to take them back ashore.

  21st August 2010

Change of plan. After very bumpy night with the anchor dragging first this morning we moved the boat alongside the quay as the meltemi had picked up during the night and we were like a corkscrew on the water. Our plan to sail to Mitlini to stock up had to be revised so we took the bus instead. Up hills and down vales we drove through the island and after a little over an hour reached the capital. We were lucky in that the shop (AB) was next to the bus station so we did not have too far to carry our purchases. On our return to Plomari we cooked a farewell dinner for Ronny and Lisa who were leaving the next day.

22nd August 2010

The meltemi was still blowing so we stayed put but were bounced around much less. We took advantage of the water and did a wash load but otherwise took it easy and planned our route.

23^rd August 2010

After visiting the port police and paying our dues we got the transit log back and we left Plomari late morning heading South. We were unable to sail but did motor sail until we reached the island of Oinousses to the east of Khios. We anchored outside the harbour in the early afternoon and after our anchor dram took a swim in water that was a good deal colder that what we had been used to up to then but still crystal clear. We took a quick trip round the town but did not find much of interest. We have decided to stay another day here to relax after our busy week.

24^th Augut 2010

After a quiet morning we took the dinghy into town and decided to explore the back streets. We wandered round and found some houses for sale and other that had obviously been recently renovated. Apparently the island is the home of wealthy shipping magnates who are less known that than Onassis but a great deal wealthier. The renovation work on the quay and its surroundings certainly leaves the impression that money is being spent here.

25^th August 2010

We lifted the anchor and left the island of Oinousses. We were able to sail all day until we reached the outskirts of Komi (Khios) when the wind died and we had to finish the journey by engine: We anchored outside the beach and after a few hours took the dinghy into town to explore. On our way in we “rescued” a young couple who had managed to get a rope tangled round the propeller of their jetski. We towed them into the beach. After investigation it was impossible to repair in the water so Svein towed them over to the fishing harbour where the jetski was taken out of the water and Svein repaired it (not without having to return to the boat to collect the appropriate tools)!!! Tomorrow we continue our journey south and hopefully will be in the vicinity of Samos.

13^th August 2010

We have decided to stay another day at anchor. We started the day with a long swim and then got down to some household tasks (defrosting the fridge). There was a great deal of unusual activity at the taverna: tables were being brought out together with chairs and there were so many that we were convinced there was going to be a wedding party. We did not dare go ashore to investigate but decided to wait and see what transpired. It was another sultry day so we also decided to try and sleep on deck where we hoped it might be a bit cooler. As evening wore on people started arriving but nothing seemed to be happening until around 22h00. Then there was Greek music and singing But we could see no wedding party. Caryn was lulled to sleep by the music so Svein took the dinghy and went ashore to investigate. It transpired that there was a concert in progress with 6 professional musicians who also sang together with a group of dancers performing traditional dances. Svein filmed quite a bit of the concert and has put it out on Youtube. We had a rather restless night sleeping on deck despite the fact that we had the stars for company – probably not an experience we will try again.

14^th August 2010

We must now move on and reach the harbour of Plomari so that we are installed when our friends Lisa and Ronny from ‘Sweden arrive. We hoisted the anchor and made our way out of the bay. After a 3 hour journey we arrived at the harbour. A big surprise awaited us as we found that there was one other boat there but the visitors pontoon no longer existed. We moored up on the town quay and hoped our anchor had taken. We treated ourselves to a late lunch at the taverna next to us and then proceeded to wait for the temperature to drop before we ventured out to explore the town. We had to wait until quite late as the temperature is still in the upper 30s around 21h00. There are many quiet back streets, not many tourists and overall the town is very pleasant. It was a eventful night as the wind blew up and our anchor started to drag. Svein solved the problem temporarily by putting out another anchor but we will have to re anchor tomorrow morning.

15^th August 2010

Having discovered that there is no laundry in the town we had to set to and do some serious washing that we had been holding back on – the sheets and towels. We put them into soak and then carried on with washing the boat in and out in preparation for the visitors. Once the washing was hanging out and the wind had dropped it was time to re anchor. We duly pulled in both anchors but then got stuck on the flimsy anchor rope that a small motor boat had put out right across the harbour. Svein dived to release it from both the rudder and the keel and we were able to anchor again but this time using the two anchors one behind the other to give us more stability. As it was very hot work we did not have the courage to cook a meal so ate out again and went to bed with the knowledge that all was ready.

16^th August 2010

We waited most of the day quietly on the boat and Lisa and Ronny arrived at 16h00. We sat on the boat catching up on the news as we had not seen them since 2006. We then went ashore and had a quiet dinner in our local taverna.

17^th August 2010

Temperatures are still very high and there is not much air in the harbour. Instead of hanging around in town we took the dinghy and went and joined Lisa and Ronny at their hotel on the beach. We spent a very lazy day sunning ourselves and generally relaxing with plenty of swimming. We also enjoyed a Greek music evening in the local taverna.

20^th August 2010

Visiting the beach has been the procedure for the last couple of days with plenty of swimming to cool down and tomorrow we will prepare the boat for our departure on Saturday. We did however spend the evening with Ronny and Lisa and ate dinner at their hotel where there was a Greek orchestra. Svein managed to distinguish himself again. We have not decided where we are making for yet but will probably be going South.

8^th August 2010

After a lazy morning shopping, filling the water tank and catching up with the family on Skype we hoisted the anchor at 13h45 and starting making our way towards the island of Alonnisos about 17NM further on. As soon as we left the harbour we were able to hoist the sails and only had to start the engine when we came to the tip of the Skopelos. The scenery was spectacular with steep cliffs covered in olive trees dropping to the blue water. We crossed over to Alonnisos and by 17h45 we were anchored in Ormus Roumousi. Again a small bay with 2 other boats anchored here and clear water. A small settlement on land but for any shopping one has to go to the neighbouring town of Patitri. It is our plan to stay here until Wednesday so we shall explore on land tomorrow.

9^th August 2010

We are still on the boat at 10h00 as we are experiencing our first thunderstorm and rain. The rain is pelting down so it is a good test to see if the work done on the deck has been successful. It would appear so. It has given me time to update the accounts and do some chores in the boat as it is cool enough to stay indoors. Svein has also worked on the fuel tank. He has measured it so that we now have its exact capacity – a pleasant surprise to find that it contains 30 litres more than we thought and we have been able to calculate our average fuel consumption so far this trip. Jolly glad that we are not on the water today.

As soon as the rain had stopped we emptied the dinghy (approx 50 litres had collected in it) and then put the washing to soak in the collected rainwater.
We then proceeded to walk over the hill to Patitri. There we browsed and bought the postcards for the family (who receive one from every port of call) and then found a wifi cafe. Svein collected the latest weather forecast and we braced ourselves for the walk back. We returned to the boat at 15h30 and proceeded to rinse and hang out the washing. We then had a well deserved swim. In the late afternoon Svein took the dinghy into shore to deliver the rubbish and take some photos as we had forgotten the camera earlier in the day. We shall have a dinner on board tonight and tomorrow we shall make our way to Skyros. This will be our last island before we make the crossing over to Lesbos.

10^th August 2010

As we had made the boat ready the night before we were able to leave early for our crossing to Skyros. We hoisted the main and mizzen before lifting the anchor and headed out of the bay. The wind was right but we motored sailed for 90 minutes in order to charge the batteries as the clouds the previous day had cheated us of our full charge. Once the engine was stopped we sailed on a comfortable tack throughout the day with the wind speed varying between 10 and 15 knots until we reached the island of Skyros. Here we encountered such strong gusts that we were obliged to lower the main and bring in the genoa. We carried on under engine and once we had gone through the narrow pass discovered the town of Limaria. With the gusts blowing there was no way we were going to try to go to quay so we headed for the anchorage just to the North of the town. When we arrived there was one other boat but by the end of the evening we had 7 sail boats and 4 hugh “gin palaces” in the bay. At least it meant good business for the local taverna on the beach.

11^th August 2010

We are staying here for another day to be sure of the best weather forecast for the crossing to Lesbos so bright and not too early we took the dinghy into town and caught the local bus up to the Chora. This delightful town is built on the top of a hill (originally from where the territory was defended) so we climbed up through the narrow streets windowshopping. We also managed to collect some money from the ATM and spent some on the local speciality – embroidery – for which the island is renowned. We then caught a bus back to Limaria and went in search of internet. The cafe was just beside the ferry quay we had an enlightening few hours whilst the ferry discharged and then reloaded the passengers and cars. It was a never ending ballet of comings and goings but eventually everyone got on board and the ferry was able to leave. We are not sure of its destination but it seems to do at least two rotations a day.

The latest weather forecast confirms that tomorrow is the best time to cross to Lesbos so we shall be leaving early to make the 16 hour crossing and be there is time to greet our Swedish friends.

12^th August 2010

We made it. We have reached Lesbos. After a very early start (03h00) when we left the anchorage on Skyros we motorsailed/sailed all day. The tack was tight and the wind played games but all n all it was a good crossing. We saw absolutely no other sailboats but danced among the cargoes on two different occasions. We reached our anchorage in the bay of Apothekes at 18h55 after a 16-hour crossing and an 84 NM journey. There were no other boats in the anchorage. It is a quiet fishing hamlet surrounded by land with a very narrow entrance into the bay. The breeze, bringing the heat of the land, can really be felt but the sea is not far away to cool off in. We treated ourselves to a fish dinner in the local taverna and although our pockets are feeling the pinch it was well worth it after such a good day. We are undecided as to whether we shall stay another night here or go into the harbour but the thought of one week in a harbour is a little daunting at the moment.

6^th August 2010

This morning we had a change of plan. With an updated weather forecast we decided to visit the Bay of Volos before making our crossing. We left the anchorage in the Bay of Vathikelon and continued East (under engine). We were heading for the island of Palaio Trikeri in the Bay of Volos. As we approached the wind blew up and we suddenly started having gusts of 25 knots. Not the best thing to go into a harbour and of course it was blowing from the wrong direction. We prepared the boat and then the trouble started. After we had lowered the dinghy and Svein was backing a wave filled the dinghy with water. We got rid of this and then started to back, dropping the anchor as we went. Unfortunately the anchor did not take and we start drifting onto the other boats and ended up with our starboard side along the fishing boats anchored in the harbour!! A kind French man got in his dinghy and tried to pull us off but by this time a mooring rope had managed to snag our keel so we were stuck fast. The wind was still blowing and now we had all the local fishermen on their boats holding up off. Svein dived and released the mooring rope and the dinghy pulled us off. We had to exit the harbour and were unable to thank them or buy them a round of drinks.

We were glad to get out of there and crossed the bay to find a safer anchorage. Again we ran into problems although our anchor had taken we were receiving gusts of 25 knots into the bay which made it extremely uncomfortable. We decided to head out and move to the entrace of the Bay of Volos where there was a safe anchorage.

The only good thing about the whole day was that we were able to sail to our new anchorage. We moored late afternoon and treated ourselves to a good dinner on shore that we felt we had deserved after the horrors of the day.

We found an internet cafe and were able to get a weather forecast update which should enable us to plan for next few days. After dinner we also met some Austrians who were sailing the same model of Wharram catamaran that Svein had built in the 80s. We had a long chat with them and will perhaps meet up with them in the islands. We went to bed in preparation for an early start for our trip to Skopelos.

7^th August 2010

Bright and early (06h30) we hoisted the anchor and left the Bay of Pigadhi. By 07h00 we had the sails up and then played cat and mouse with the wind until we passed the island of Skiathos.From then on we were able to sail, although on a tight tack, and only started the engine when it was time to enter the harbour of Loutraki on the island of Skopelos. As there was no room on the small quay we anchored off the breakwater. Fortunately we got in early as by late afternoon the flotillas were pouring in as well as the private boats all looking for a space.

Svein has investigated the damage to the new paintwork (from the previous day’s adventure).

We came to Skopelos as we are both Abba fans and this is the setting for the Mamma Mia film. We have, however, yet to find the village where it was based. It certainly was not Loutraki. Whether we have time to explore all the island is another matter but we have at least reached the North Sporades and it is only a few more islands before we get to Lesbos.

4^th August 2010

After Svein had successfully filled the last two 25 litre diesel cans we waited until 14h00 and went into town to collect our bridge permit. When we arrived at the Customs we were told that we were too early and had to come back and see the Commandant between 15h00 and 17h00. As we had expected this we went off to do the last bit of shopping that was needed. We came back the the Port Police Authorities at 15h00 to be told that it was not yet time and could we please wait. As you imagine the fact that the bridge had been closed for 3 days meant that there was quite a queue building up. We waited patiently and eventually an officer appeared and was ready to go to work. We had initially been the first in the queue but a polite French man decided to pass in front of us. We believe he may still be waiting there as he presented a €200 euro note to pay a bill of €18.69 and needless to say they had no change. We then got our own permit and escaped to have a well earned drink. We met up with some Italians who were also waiting for the bridge but in the opposite direction and they gave us some useful tips about anchorages. We returned to the boat and got here ready for departure.

At 22h00 we were duly called up on the VHF and told to prepare the boat and hoise the anchor as the bridge would be opening in 15 minutes. As everybody was given the same instructions there started to be a little hustling amongst the 14 odd boats waiting to go through. Evenually the bridge opened and the commercial vessel was allowed to go through first followed, in theory, by the motor yachts and then the sailing yachts. However by this time everyone was extremely anxious to get through and ignored the instructions. So to add to the bustle came instructions from the Authorities for the sailing yachts to go through faster. We got through at 22h30 and continued on our way.

Our initial plan had been to sail (read motor) through the night but after a few hours we encountered very strong head winds that reduced our speed to 3 knots at 2000 rpm and very choppy seas. We decided to go for an anchorage and continue the next day. At 02h30 we were anchored outside the town of Larimna. A dirty oremining town but at least we did not have to look at the chimneys and were able to get a short night’s sleep in a safe anchorage.

5^th August 2010

We were up bright and early and left the anchorage to look at more pleasant surroundings. We continued to head NW under engine and inevitably had the head winds – although this time they were not so strong. We motored through the day and rounded the tip of Evia into the Orei channel in the early afternoon. We now had an East wind – straight on the nose – so we decided to make for an anchorage that was calm and in pleasant surroundings. We chose the bay of Vathikelon. We anchored in a corner and enjoyed the peace and calm. We went for a swim in the blue waters and Svein was treated to a special dinner of “gesiers” for all his hard work. In the late afternoon we were joined by a rather expensive Spanish 112ft sloop. Apparently it is one of the biggest Swan yachts built. She was elegant and had such a lot of clever features like the flush portholes in the hull and the gangway that also fitted into the hull when not in use. So tonight we are in regal company in the anchorage under the stars. We are hoping that the passage to Skepolos (the Mamma Mia island) tomorrow will bring up more luck with the winds and we can sail a little. We are slowly but surely approaching our final destination of Lesbos.

At 21h15 the crew was fed and watered and rested, the baot was ship shape so we raised the anchor and set off North for our first night passage of this journey. There was no wind and the sea was calm and apart from dodging the many tankers that were using the early part of the route we had an uneventful journey up through the south part of the Kolpos Petalion strait.

At 04h30 we approached our destination – a small protected by on the island of Evia called Voufalo. We dropped anchor and went off for some shut eye.

2^nd August 2010

The next morning Svein discovered that we had anchored next to a wreck! It was marked by a small empty plastic water bottle and consisted of a small boat that had sunk from the stern and bow was sticking up about 2m below the surface. We were lucky. Anyway we decided we did not like the anchorage that much so decided to press on.

We continued up the strait and were to be able to sail for 3 hours. It was a very tight tack to start with but then the wind gradually came round so we had a long stretch up to the town of Alverion. Here, as we rounded the corner, we had the wind at 20 kn on the nose so Perkins was brought into action again. Again the trip was peaceful until we reached the town of Ereitria where we played dodgem cars with the ferries that were plying between the town on Evia and Oropos on the mainland.

We round Ak Avlis in the early afternoon and carried on under the bridge that opens into the bay where the town of Khalkis is to be found. The area is full of very heavy industry ranging from shipyards to cement factories so, at a first glance, does not seem very inviting. We approached the quay at Khalkis so that we could register to be able to go through a small bridge that spans the town. A “friendly” Greek customs officer came and told us that the bridge would not be opening before Wednesday so could we please go and anchor. This we did and we are now anchored under a fort that overlooks the bay. We decided that we deserved a dinner out in town after completing nearly 100 NM in under 24 hours. To reach our destination in time we will probably have to do another long stretch as all the advantage has been lost by the closure of the bridge.

3^rd Auguat 2010

We have explored the town whilst we are waiting and Svein is in the process of filling up with diesel. A difficult process as he has to take the cans into town one by one in order to have them filled. We need to ensure that we have enough fuel to get us to Lesbos, if we are unable to sail all the way, and the prospects of finding diesel further up the strait are quite remote.

Tomorrow, between 15h00 and 17h00, we will go and register with the port police so that we can get through the bridge and we should be leaving Khalkis somewhere after midnight as they only open the bridge in the evening so as to disrupt the traffic as little as possible!! How many boats will be going through is not sure but several turned up yesterday and more today so it should be an interesting procedure.

At 08h00 we were up and ready to go in the water. The harbour staff eventually arrived at 10h00. They lifted the boat in the slings and Svein was able to antifoul the support spots and under the keel (after he had scrapped off the mussel farm!). At 11h15 we were in the water and ready to leave the boatyeard. We made our way out of the slip and headed East. It was very hot, even on the water, so around 14h00 we stopped on the little island of Fleas to have a swim and to revisit old haunts. This is a spot we found in 1994 on our first visit to Greece. It had not changed and we were able to anchor and have a swim. After a brief stop we continued on our waywere able to sail for about an hour but after that the wind changed to SE and then E so we had it on the nose and had to motor. We rounded the point of Souminon around 16h00 with quite a number of other boats. We then had a choice of heading North towards Lavrion or heading over to Kea. We chose the latter and in strengthening winds and choppy seas we came into Kea late evening. We anchored in coal bunker bay just at the wind dropped. We had a quick meal and went to bed as we were both tired from a full day out in the fresh air.

1^st August 2010

This morning we launched the dinghy and headed into Korissia in search of supplies and diesel. As far as the diesel was concerned we were very lucky as there was a motor yacht refuelling and the diesel lorry agreed to supply us also. It turned out to be at a very reasonable price as well. In the meantime Caryn went in search of a supermarket and bakery. She found an “AB” and was able to stock up on liquids, as the stock was seriously depleted, and some food. We are now ready to venture further North into the Eviva channel. On returning to the boat we had a well deserved swim once we had put away the shopping and then treated ourselves to a lunch of “foie gras”. This was some of the stock that we had brought with us from France last year. It was really appreciated as we sat on deck in the sunshine savouring it. We will wait until the north wind has died down this evening and then do a night passage into the channel.

Bright and early we set out for Asprakis boatyard to haul out the boat. After a short but very bumpy and windy trip round to the North of the island we were in the travel lift at 10h00. The lift out went well and after a pressure wash we were chocked up and in place on land by 11h30. The Greeks can be efficient. We organised the work to be done, hired a scooter and by 16h00 we had painted the first coat of anti fouling. We both then enjoyed a good shower on land (our first since we had left Mesolonghi). Another first was that we connected to land power for the first time since our departure. The solar panels and wind generator supply all our needs but to boot up the main computer takes a little too much power so whilst we are here we will do the work that we have been putting off.

The next morning Svein put on the second coat of anti-fouling before he went into Aegina to get our lift out permit from the port police. Whilst he was in town Caryn caught up with the washing and on his return set to scrubbing down the dinghy in preparation for the revamping. During this time Svein worked on repairing the top sides and sprucing them up with some paint. As the temperature was steadily rising and it was very hard working in the current heat we took a break and went off for a deserved swim. On our return Svein began to repair our spare water pump (you never know) and then proceeded to work on the dinghy by giving it two coats of primer and then the first coat of Coelan. The dinghy is now bright yellow (to match the anchor). Tomorrow the next coats will go on. All in all a great deal of work done in a very short time.

30^th July 2010

We rigged up a shade to cover the dinghy so that we could carry on painting in the heat and sun. Over the course of the day 2 more coats of Coelan were put on. It really makes a difference and hopefully will extend its lifespan. Late afternoon a French boat that we had seen in Aegina harbour came to the boatyard for their liftout. They will be spending the winter there. After a discussion it was decided that they would take over our scotter hire so the owner and Svein drove into town together. The first stop was the port pollice so that we could get an exit stamp and the French could complete their formalities. Too much for a Friday afternoon so they must go back the next day. They then visited the scooter rental and Svein also had a quick session on internet to send out some urgent emails. They got back to the harbour to discover that all our papers had been left in the port police so Svein quickly returned to get them back.