After a second undisturbed night we started on our way back with the intention of stopping in Vonitsa – the large town at the entrance to the Gulf. We anchored outside the harbour late morning and took the dinghy into town to explore. Again this is not a tourist town but has a very nice harbour and a lovely beach that we were able to swim off after we had explored the town. Lots of different shops and restaurants that cater for the locals and again a town that livens up in the evening when people seem to come from far and wide for a evening out strolling along the sea promenade.
Once the strong wind dropped in the evening we decided to move into the harbour and found a nice spot beside a Wharram catamaran. This was of interest to Svein as in his youth he had built a small one and started a bigger one that never got finished.
Vonitsa is dominated by the Venetian castle (as many other towns and ports in the area) and its history is closely linked to the power struggle The castle was built in the 13th century and was under the control of the different rulers (Angevins, Orsini, Tocci, Dukes of Leece and Knights of Rhodes) before coming under the Ottomans and the Ventians. It finally came into the hands of Ali Pasha of Ioannina before it was incorporated into the Greek state in 1829.
We decided to stay here for the weekend and on Sunday afternoon we were joined by “Laerke” who had come from Preveza. They had ordered a new auto pilot system that was waiting for them in Nidri.

Bright and early we left the quay in Preveza and wended our way into the Gulf of Amvrakia. This is a reputed natural reserve and we are hoping to see the dolphins and turtles as well as the other wild life that is abounding in this area. The first thing that is of consequence is the numerous fish farms dotted along the coast. We ignore the first town and decide to go into the end of the Gulf and then work our way back to Preveza. After a long morning we arrive at the bay of Sparto and realise that we have not seen another sailboat and even better we are all alone in the bay – Bliss. The first day we spend on the boat just winding down and swimming. However the next we decide to face civilization and go into the beach where there is a tavern. Unfortunately the food was not very good but in the later afternoon we took the dinghy and after mooring it in one of the small bays we followed the winding road to see if it led us to a town. After a very steep climb we arrived in a small village that had at least 4 taverns. We found a small supermarket but not much else. A pity that such a hard climb was not more rewarding except for a big thirst and a long way down again when we were ready. After a well deserved drink in one of the taverns when the locals could stop playing cards we wandered back the way we had come and were able to enjoy the view over the olive groves and the bay in general.

This stretch was down under engine for the whole way as although some strong winds blew up in the course of the journey it was not coming from the right direction. As the temperatures are soaring we had a couple of cooling off stops on the way down and even managed to recover an anchor buoy that was floating past. We moored on the “Scandinavian quay” in Preveza marina in the late afternoon after a long day. In the cool of the evening we walked into town to explore. It is not a tourist town although some charter companies seem to use it as their base. As a result there is not the usual throng of tourists although the town certainly comes to life in the evening when the locals are out taking their evening strolls.
One of the main reasons for coming to Preveza is that we have to change all our services batteries that are just over one year old – so much for sealed batteries. After investigating we have been advised on good authority to buy from a garage and that is what we did when the shops opened on Monday morning. They respect the Sunday closing here because of the lack of tourists. The new batteries have been purchased and installed so we are up and running again and can lie at anchor once more. After a wander around the town, a small stock up and a book swap in one of the local chandlers we were ready to go

After an early start as there was quite a distance to travel we left the quay in Plateria and made our way South to Parga. For once the wind was in our favour and we managed to achieve a sailing time of 4 and half hours. This meant that we reached Parga quite late in the afternoon and the initial bay we were intending to anchor in was pretty full of charter boats and the dreaded water sport fiends. Instead we anchored under the Venetian citadel with a line ashore. Parga in July is not the ideal spot. Early in the morning it is very pleasant to wander through the streets but at night it is throbbing with people who are meandering in and out of the shops in the small streets or are wandering along the quay and the ferries are busy until late in the night taking people to and from the bay. We were happy to leave there and make our way down to Preveza.

Once more on our own and with nothing more to do in Corfu we left the harbour as soon as the German boat had left so that we could make our way South again. We decided to visit Plateria again and then to make our way down the mainland to Parga and Preveza before the end of the week when again very strong winds are expected and we would prefer to be in a safe place. As we entered the bay we were met by an armada of 17 charter boats leaving the harbour so we were sure that we would find space on the quay for the night.

As none of us had yet visited Corfu town we decided that on the return trip to the island we would moor in the old harbour and that the girls would then return to their hotel by taxi in the evening.
We left Lakka late morning and again motored up to the town (head wind). We contacted “Laerke” who had been in the harbour for a few days and found out that we could raft to them. We arrived again in the late afternoon and rafted up. Once everything had settled down we wandered into the old town to check out the shops and to sightsee a little. The old town is full of shops selling leather good, furs and traditional goods made in Corfu. We even met a lady promoting local liquor dressed in a typical wedding costume – she must have been very hot as we were wilting under the heat in the small narrow streets. After dinner the girls came back to the boat to collect their luggage and took a taxi back to Dassio to finish their holiday. In the meantime a German boat had rafted up to us for the night.

As the trip to Lakka was not very long we set off after a leisurely breakfast and crossed the channel to Lakka Bay. It was mainly under engine but we did manage to get in a short period of sailing. There was a significant increase in the number of boats moored in the bay but we found a good anchorage and again enjoyed the water and the surroundings.

The next day we collected the girls and brought them out to the boat and set off for the mainland. Our plan was to visit Plateria with them and then, after a night in the harbour, to go across to Lakka as neither of them knew the bay. All went according to plan and after frequent cooling off stops on the way over we were safely moored in Plateria harbour in the late afternoon. Everyone went to the nearby beach to cool off again. After a dinner in a local restaurant we explored the small town.

The next morning we parted company with “Laerke” and headed North to Corfu so that we could find a good anchorage and check out the area where our Norwegian friends would be staying. Miracle of miracles we actually managed to sail for two and a half hours out of the seven hour journey. It took us up the East coast of the island past Corfu town and we eventually anchored in Kammeno Bay opposite Gouvia Marina.
Here we spent a quiet night and the next morning we rounded the head to anchor in Krevatsoyla Bay opposite Dassio. After a refreshing swim we took the dinghy into town to find the hotel where Bente and Tove would be staying and to get something to ear. Dassio is not a first choice for a holiday as it is made up entirely of hotels and bars with a few shops scattered in between. After finding the hotel we eventually found a little Greek tavern where we were served a really good homemade meal and we were able to wait until the arrival of the bus from the airport. The girls arrived around midnight and after a long chat and an agreement for them to spend the next day on the boat we got to bed in the early hours of the morning.
The girls came and spent the day on the boat with frequent swimming excursions to cool down and we planned to leave with them the next day on a short cruise. However our plans changed when we discovered that very strong NW winds were forecast for the next day. We checked when we got back to the boat after dinner and for once the forecast proved to be correct. At 7am we were up and moving the boat to the other side of the bay to be in the lee of the land and facing the NW winds. They blew all day and well into the night but the anchor held and we felt very safe.

Having replenished the stocks we left Lefkada quay and went through the North Entrance to Lefkada canal so that we could make our way North towards Corfu. A day of motoring has there was very little wind. “Laerke” would follow us as they still had unfinished business in Lefkada. We had a pleasant journey and arrived in Mongonisi Bay on the island of Paxos in the late afternoon. After several futile attempts to anchor in the bay (weed) we left the bay to anchor at its entrance in good holding with a line ashore. “Laerke” joined us and rafted for the evening.
The next morning we continued up the East coast of the island to anchor in the bay of Lakka – A place that must really be seen to be believed. A bay with crystal clear turquoise water that is surrounded by trees. Fortunately we had arrived early so were able to get a good anchorage as it is very popular.
After a very refreshing swim (for some reason although the bay is not very deep the water is quite cold in comparison to other places we have been) we took the dinghy in to explore the little village tucked away into the corner of the bay. Small streets that house little shops and restaurants and they were a joy to wonder round as the buildings are old and the greenery is well established.

The family has left and before setting out on the next stage of the trip we decided to visit the island of Meganisi. Not too far from Lefkada but a world of difference. We left on a Sunday morning just at the harbour authorities in Nidri were turfing out the boats to make way for the big cabin cruisers so our decision to leave was judicious. We motored past Scorpios and headed for Meganisi to explore the inlets on the North East coast accompanied by “Laerke”. We reached our desitination quickly and started to look for a suitable anchorage. We first tried a bay at the head of Abelike bay but did not feel happy with it although there were several boats there that looked as though they had been there for a number of years!
Niels and Svein decided to explore the bay in more detail and left in the dinghy. They returned very quickly having found a much deeper bay further in with few boats so we weighed anchor and headed off to find our ideal spot. After a couple of attempts (the bottom being shell and weed) we were anchored with a line ashore (kindly assisted by the Dutch charter fleet team) and were able to enjoy a swim in the crystal clear water. The bay also boasted two taverns that would be interesting to explore later on. True to tradition Svein wandered off to explore and returned to inform us that a flotilla would be in the bay that night! They duly arrived but were much disciplined and did not disturb the other boats in the bay. It was wonderful to be able to enjoy peace and quiet and to relax after the busy weeks past.
Studying the map of the island we discovered that we were not very far from Vathi the main town on the island so early one morning we took the dinghy ashore and investigated. After a short climb up the hill, a brief walk along the road and then down some convenient steps we arrived in the town 15 minutes later. A sleepy place complete with the usual town quay, taverns and two shops as well as a bakery. The biggest surprise was finding the unfinished harbour that was at the entrance to the bay. Apparently it had been started over two years ago but was still not finished although it as possible to moor the electricity and water facilities were not working. In true Greek style no one knows when it will be up and running. Anyway it is a place where charter boats can practice their stern to berthing procedures as long as they do not pick up any of the old anchors left in the bay!!
There were many nationalities using the bay for different lengths of time and the taverns certainly did good business as well as providing laundry facilities, water and a book swapping service (a god send).
After nearly a week here we felt read to move on again and start our way up to Corfu to meet Bente and Tove from Sandefjord. We left late morning and after a short 2 hour trip we moored again on Lefkada town quay.