We weighed anchor and proceeded to make our way to Mesolonghi to wait for them. Our luck was not with us and we motored all day with a head wind. However the trip was interesting and we saw very varied countryside coming into the Gulf of Patras.
We had thoughts of Port Napoleon on our approach to Mesolonghi as we were surrounded by very flat land with salt marshes and the entrance to the harbour is via a long canal. There was however a very big difference in that the canal is bordered by old fishermen’s houses on stilts that have now been converted into holiday homes. It was very colourful and each home had its own quay. We reached the harbour that is partly Dutch owned and moored alongside.
The harbour has been under construction for many years and is still not complete. For the moment there are pontoons but no electricity or water and the buildings are not ready so there are no facilities. However the staff are very helpful and there are quite a few boats moored. The fact that we do not have to pay anything for the moment also helps!
We have met up with people we saw in Argostoli and Astakos as well as finding a boat that we had seen in Port Napoleon last year. If and when the harbour is finished it will be a very good one where people will be able to winter before deciding on their next port of call.
We walked into town to explore – a very long way – and when we got back to the harbour the first thing that Svein did was to repair the punctures on our bikes! Next time we will be cycling into town. At least we can say that we are getting plenty of exercise. We have also had a small thunderstorm and some slight rain which did everyone a lot of good as the humidity level is very high here. However the sun is now out and the temperature is getting back to normal.
Mesolonghi is a university town that comes alive in the winter and is definitely not known as a tourist town although some Greeks come here for their holidays. It is a pleasant town to wander around and has a wide variety of shops that cater for the locals. The surrounding countryside is also interesting and in the canal the locals go frequently to cover themselves in the mud that has therapeutic values for rheumatisms. We also tried the local bathing spot although it was more like taking a warm bath in muddy water so were far happier with the swimming pool that we were able to use in one of the local hotels.
Since we have arrived in the harbour we have already seen some changes: two showers were opened and some electricity outputs have been installed and connected. It would seem that they are getting there slowly but surely. There are certainly boats taking contracts for the winter.

After our neighbour, who was rafted to us, had departed we also left the quay to make our way over to Ithaca island where we were due to meet up with Laerke again. The day started out well and we were able to motor to the head of the bay and drop our anchor in Marathia Bay to go for a swim and wait for the wind to blow up. This duly happened so we were able to leave the anchorage under sail without starting the engine. We set curse for Ithaca but were unlucky with the wind direction and had to hold a very close tack (something C’est la Vie does not like) in every strengthening winds. We rolled in the genoa and took 2 reefs on the main and battled through the stiffening sea to reach Kioni on Ithaca. As we were approaching we got a call from Laerke to tell us that the harbour was full of charter boats and there was no room. We then started to go South to find an anchorage for the night. We eventually anchored in Kaminia Cove but there the story did not end.
Just as we were finishing dinner on Laerke we saw the two boats approaching each other in such a way that Svein was able to hop on board ours. We were both drifting so we again weighed our anchors and started off to find another anchorage. We came into Pigadhi bay in the dark. When you are sailing in the dark you suddenly realise how few boats use anchor lights at night!!!! Again we were not very lucky but I managed to get back on board and we then started trying to anchor. After several attempts we eventually managed to get a line ashore so we were sure that we were safe for the rest of the night which by this time was getting very short!!!!!
We woke next morning to crystal clear water and lovely surroundings which made the hassle from the previous night worth the while. In the meantime Laeke had returned to Nidri to collect the spare part but when Svein went to install it – it was incomplete. A piece had been left behind so they weighed anchor and returned to Nidri again to collect it.

We waited to leave Kastos until the wind had blown up and then made our way across to the mainland. We managed to sail for 2 hours today and in the afternoon we reached the town of Astakos at the end of the bay. Not a tourist town but not one to be recommended either. We decided to treat ourselves to a dinner out but the restaurant we chose was not a wise choice. The prices announced outside did not match the prices on the menu and in the end we walked out in disgust after we had waited over an hour for Svein to be served a dish that had been recommended by the owner of the place. He ended up eating a Pita Gyros!!!!!!!

We agreed to meet up with them at another point and so whilst Laerke went back to sort out their problem in Nidri we made our way down to Kastos island to wait for them. The best about today is that we have been able to sail for nearly 4 hours.
We had visited this island when we had been out on the charter boat with the family and really wanted to go back there. However by the time we arrived the small harbour was full of Italians so we anchored outside the harbour in clear water. After dinner we took the dinghy into the quay and wandered around the small hamlet.

This morning we left Nidri once again to make our way over to Meganisi where we were invited out to dinner to celebrate Neils’ birthday We anchored in Port Atheni at lunch time and then spent the afternoon making a birthday cake. Cakes are not something we make very often on board so we were taking a chance but it turned out to be edible and looked very good with its chocolate icing and silver decoration. We enjoyed a typical Greek meal in a local tavern overlooking the bay.
Unfortunately by the time we got back to the respective boats the flotilla members were having a disco night at one of the other restaurants (opposite the boat) so it was a little noisy. We only had to listen to the music until 1am so we were able to get a good night sleep in the end.
We decided not to spend a second night in this bay so made our way round to Abelike Bay where it was not too crowded and there was peace and quiet. We also took advantage of getting some washing done.
On the way round to the bay the calibration tests were carried out on “Laerke” and we then discovered that there was an additional problem so that they would have to return to Nidri to get it sorted out.

On Monday morning we left Vonitsa harbour to make our way to Nidri. Thistime we saw some dolphins but they were not very playful. Turtles were more rare although we did see some whilst in Vonitsa harbor but we were never quick enough to film them as they stayed on the surface for very long – their heads appeared only twice to take breath and then they were gone.
Once through the entrance to Preveza we were able to sail for half and hour and managed to make our way into the canal entrance in time for the opening of the bridge. Once in the queue we discovered that the bridge would not open for another hour so we dropped our anchor and waited patiently unlike some of the other nationalities also waiting to go through. Eventually we got through and we were in luck for once the wind was in the right direction so we were able to hoist all the sails and sail through the Lefkada canal and nearly down to Nidri. It was only on the last stretch that we had to start the engine. It was a very pleasant sail and nice to give them an airing. We moored on the Nielsen quay in the later afternoon as we needed electricity for Svein to carry out the installation work on “Laerke”.
We have now been back in Nidri for three nights. Not long after our arrival we witnessed a motor boat burning in the bay. I truly hope that we will never need the services of the fire brigade here as they took a very long time in coming. The boat burned for at least three hours and in the end sunk. We were plagued by the toxic fumes but it seemed more of an attraction to the locals and in the end the ferry boat and one of the tourist boats were spraying the burning vessel with water. What was the cause of the fire is still unknown.
The auto pilot is now installed on “Laerke” and we have also been able to change the windlass battery which also gave up on us and repair the shower pump that had been leaking.
We shall leave Nidri tomorrow morning for Meganisi and our journey further south.
We have now been travelling for 3 months of which 2 have been spent in the Ionian Sea. We have seen a great deal of interesting places and met many travelers over the course of this time. We are looking forward to the next few months where we shall see a new area of Greece and hopefully have many new adventures.