S/Y C'est la vie

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We were lifted out early and then unfortunately had to wait several hours for the water and electricity to be connected. One this was achieved Caryn scrubbed down the undersides that were only covered with slime and a few barnacles so the antifouling from last year had held up well. Svein started working on the topsides and found that the bolts holding the backstays of the main mast were rusted so had to be changed. He managed to find a very good stainless steel shop and bought new ones so already by the evening the starboard ones were changed. We decided we deserved a meal out (particularly as it is no fun trying to cook on land) so we explored the local back streets and found a superb Greek restaurant. By the end of the day we were satisfied with what we had achieved. Although it is hot and windy there is a nice beach within the boatyard so it is easy to cool off.

Caryn managed to paint the first coat of paint on the port side before the heat got too bad and Svein sanded the topsides and changed the bolts on the port side for the backstay. Found a small restaurant where we had gone for a pita gyros and where we were plied with drinks by one of the locals. We also discovered that the owners of the taverna come from Nisyros

Another day and the starboard undersides got its first coat and Svein painted port topsides first coat. He had found new green paint at €6 a litre and it is the same colour.

On the third day Caryn managed to apply the second coat of anti-fouling to both sides. Svein applied the first coat of paint to starboard and the second coat on port. Sybaris arrived and we all had dinner at Drachma restaurant.

As the undersides were finished Caryn could now turn her attention to her duties and this involved a big shop at Lidl. Elly and Caryn shared a taxi both ways and managed to get everything that was needed. Meanwhile Svein finished the port topside painting and placed the aluminium strip at the waterline. He also put on the new fancy name tape on the starboard side of the boat.

The next day Caryn had promised a cheesecake so that Sybaris could welcome their family with it so whilst Svein was busy installing the rest of the name tapes she made the cheesecake. Svein also prepared the dinghy ready for antifouling and did some minor repairs that it needed. The antifouling was also completed and name tapes were also put on the dinghy. Once the work on the boat was completed we delivered the cheesecake to Sybaris, who had got a place in the harbour, and then we went into town to find internet and have a meal. On our return to the boat we cleaned up and prepared for the launch the next morning. We also took advantage of the water supply and did some hand washing. The major wash will have to be done next week in the laundry we return to Rhodes to pick up Caryn’s son.

We were ready early to launch but eventually we went in the water at 13h00 just as the wind picked up. We filled with water and washed the boat down before leaving to go to anchor in the bay. There were strong winds all afternoon and we will head to Lindos tomorrow to relax.

The strong wind led to some fun and games in the evening at the anchorage as one of the regulars (who lives on the island and leaves his boat in the bay for the summer) dragged. No-one on land seemed to care other than to tell Svein to move the boat as a ferry was coming in. We roped in a neighbouring French boat to help out and we hoisted our anchor and then using the dinghy took a rope to the distressed boat and pulled him out again so that it could be re-anchored. We dropped our anchor again and then the Frenchman on board “Mabel” fixed her anchor and brought our dinghy back to us. All in all a fairly stressful 30 minutes but all is well that ends well. The ferry duly arrived and the boat would have been in the way of his manoeuvre. Svein went to the yard to try and find someone but the office was closed although the people on their boats had watched the rescue and promised to let the owner know what had happened. As usual in the heat of the moment we could not take any pictures so only have a picture of the boat after the event. To end the story the night watchman at the yard telephoned us to hear what had happened and shortly afterwards the owner arrived to spend the night on board. Once the disco on the cruise ship closed we had a quiet night and were up early to leave the anchorage. Just before leaving Svein went over to Mabel and spoke to the owner just to ensure that there were no problems.

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We left Alimnia bright and early heading for Symi. We tried to sail but it was impossible as the wind was not strong enough. We anchored safely in the harbour and settled in for a relaxing break starting with a dinner on shore and plenty of swimming. There are plenty of boats at anchorage so there is plenty of entertainment.

After two days in Pedi we decided to go to Symi town to stock up as drinks were particularly low. We took the hair raising ride into the town and wandered round. We ordered our stocks and arranged for them to be delivered to the bus in time for our return journey. This gave us time to have a light lunch before heading back. We also found a new hat for Svein and a bikini for Caryn.

Spent another quiet day on the boat with plenty of swimming and noticed that the number of boats had decreased dramatically.

Finally came the time to leave and we headed out of the bay. After 2 hours we were able to hoist the sails and continue under sail to Rhodes. We initially anchored outside the harbour with a line ashore but local tripper boat complained so we went into the bay outside Nereus boatyard.

Svein visited the boatyard and arranged for a lift out. We then went into town and bought the paint for both the top and under sides. Lift out tomorrow morning and then the hard work starts.

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On leaving Chalki we decided to explore the uninhabited island of Alimnia that lies between Chalki and Rhodes. We were afraid that the anchorage would be crowded but were very pleasantly surprised to find only 2 other boats there.

For once a bit of history. The island is an extraordinary place with its own wells so therefore very green but has been completely deserted since 1960. There are many abandoned houses (said to be owned by Chalki fishermen) together with 2 churches that are complete with their icons, altars and bells. There are some goats that wander round but that is the only life we saw whilst we were there.

Apparently during World War II the bays were used by the Germans to hide submarines and we think that we found some anti submarine netting that could be strung across the entrance on the beach. It was the only explanation we could come up with for the metal circles that were strung together. There were also signs of barracks to house the troops at that time complete with bullet holes and crude drawings on the walls. Initially in 1944 the inhabitants were deported for the first time as a punishment for aiding 7 British commandos who were caught trying to sabotage the submarines. The commandos were taken to Thessalonika where they were executed.

We anchored in the South bay in clear water and on the first day took full advantage of it to cool down. Svein did a little snorkelling but it was good to relax and enjoy the scenery.

After a good night’s rest with no tugging ropes or squeaking pontoons we watched the other boats leave and a few others arrive but there was really not much traffic and plenty of space for everyone. In the afternoon we lowered the dinghy and went off to explore. We started by investigating the crane that we could see in the water and found that it was part of a sunken barge (which Svein later explored and filmed with the underwater camera). We then took the dinghy around to the North bay and explored the first church and the deserted barracks walking amongst the pine trees and along the beach. There was even one house still equipped with bedding and crockery although also full of goat’s droppings. Another short ride in the dinghy as we reached the little hamlet settlement that was complete with paved walkways and houses that were cabled for electricity but all was abandoned. There was also a 2^nd church here and even a bread oven.

It really was an idyllic spot that we have found and hopefully we will be able to return in the near future but after a second night here it was time to move on.

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After a good sail we reached the bay of Livadia on Tilos in the early afternoon and anchored off the beach. There were not too many boats when we arrived although quite a few arrived in the later afternoon. Nothing seemed to have changed since our last visit and for the first night we did not bother to go ashore. We spent the day and evening gently recovering from the previous night’s festivities. The next morning we decided to stay another day as we had no fixed plans until the middle of September. We lazed on the boat and took full advantage of the clear water to cool down in. In the evening we took the dinghy ashore and wandered the streets. We made an unsuccessful attempt to dine in one restaurant that said they were open but continued to ignore us after we had sat down. After a short wait we left and went to the town square where we had a drink and then found a new restaurant upstairs over the supermarket that had a fantastic view over the bay and all the activities. We watched the local ferry come and disgorge the holidaymakers and after the meal made our way back to the boat for a good nights sleep.

The next day we decided to explore some of the other bays in Tilos and duly set out to find them. Unfortunately the two we visited we were unable to anchor in as they were very deep and there was a great deal of swell so we decided to head for Chalki. We had a good sail until we reached the SW corner of Chalki and then we encountered a tail wind and a great deal of swell that made the latter part of the trip very uncomfortable. We eventually anchored in the bay outside the harbour with a line ashore although the first anchoring attempt failed and we brought up a mooring chain and a deflated marker buoy. The second attempt was successful and we were safely anchored for the night.

We enjoyed the anchorage so much that we stayed there another day and took the dinghy into town to stretch our legs a little and hook up to internet. Whilst on land an enormous ferry came in to the harbour and it really looked as though all the boats on the quay would be hit. It was a very weird optical illusion.

After a quiet night at anchorage the next day Svein checked on the quay to find out the conditions and discovered there was water available with no limit. At last a chance to wash down the boat after the salt sprays endured whilst in Nisyros. We waited until the quay was free and duly made our way over there to have the wind pick up just at that moment. We had to take 3 attempts to get the anchor to take and finally we were moored. Just as we had finished the owners of the boat next to us returned and prepared to leave. We were able to get the mooring that we wanted at last alongside the inside of the hammer head so were securely fastened. The wind blew up and we suffered very strong gusts from the west for several hours that pulled on the ropes but there were no problems. Several boats came into shelter and there was some fun and games on the quay getting everyone settled in. We duly paid our dues (€12) and filled with water, washed the boat down and put the urgent washing into soak overnight.

After a fairly bumpy night we decided to stay at quay another day and Svein did some odd jobs on the boat. Our neighbours from Athens kept Svein supplied with real expresso coffee something he has not drunk for some time. A lunch on land and a lazy afternoon swimming from the quay. It really is the good life. In the evening we had the pleasant surprise of being offered a free night at quay.

Early the next day we said goodbye to the neighbours and headed the short distance to Alimnia the subject of a separate chapter.

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What an experience! After the strong winds that had kept us in the harbour we were getting ready to leave when we heard about the celebrations for the 15^th August and we were persuaded to stay a few days longer. It was obviously a big occasion as the harbour was overcrowded and there were boats anchored outside (a first for us since we have been coming here). In addition there were calls from people asking for hire cars and hotel rooms although everything had been booked for months. Anyway Mike had promised to drive us to the festivities to be held at the Kyra monastery on the way to Nikia. After a little bit of a muddle we were eventually collected at 19h15 and driven there in his father/s 1991 Subaru that he had brought back from the States and was still using. We arrived early on site but it enabled us to see the surroundings, visit the church and the monastery (that is kept in pristine condition by donations) and to see the preparations and the band warming up, The food that would be served was all cooked by volunteers from the town of Pali. As there was still fasting the meal consisted of a salad followed by a bean dish (the meat dish would be served the following day at lunch). Everything was cooked in very large pots over an open wooden fire and was delicious. There must have been between 500 and 600 people participating. The music was non stop and everyone danced all the traditional dances that seemed to go on forever. We eventually left at 1h30 but heard the next that some had got home at 5am. On the way back we visited the monastery of St John the Theologian that overlooks Nikia as Mike was very proud of the fact that after 8 years the access road had at last been tarred.

The following day we said our goodbyes and left the harbour to continue our journey and headed for Tilos.