On leaving Chalki we decided to explore the uninhabited island of Alimnia that lies between Chalki and Rhodes. We were afraid that the anchorage would be crowded but were very pleasantly surprised to find only 2 other boats there.
For once a bit of history. The island is an extraordinary place with its own wells so therefore very green but has been completely deserted since 1960. There are many abandoned houses (said to be owned by Chalki fishermen) together with 2 churches that are complete with their icons, altars and bells. There are some goats that wander round but that is the only life we saw whilst we were there.
Apparently during World War II the bays were used by the Germans to hide submarines and we think that we found some anti submarine netting that could be strung across the entrance on the beach. It was the only explanation we could come up with for the metal circles that were strung together. There were also signs of barracks to house the troops at that time complete with bullet holes and crude drawings on the walls. Initially in 1944 the inhabitants were deported for the first time as a punishment for aiding 7 British commandos who were caught trying to sabotage the submarines. The commandos were taken to Thessalonika where they were executed.
We anchored in the South bay in clear water and on the first day took full advantage of it to cool down. Svein did a little snorkelling but it was good to relax and enjoy the scenery.
After a good night’s rest with no tugging ropes or squeaking pontoons we watched the other boats leave and a few others arrive but there was really not much traffic and plenty of space for everyone. In the afternoon we lowered the dinghy and went off to explore. We started by investigating the crane that we could see in the water and found that it was part of a sunken barge (which Svein later explored and filmed with the underwater camera). We then took the dinghy around to the North bay and explored the first church and the deserted barracks walking amongst the pine trees and along the beach. There was even one house still equipped with bedding and crockery although also full of goat’s droppings. Another short ride in the dinghy as we reached the little hamlet settlement that was complete with paved walkways and houses that were cabled for electricity but all was abandoned. There was also a 2nd church here and even a bread oven.
It really was an idyllic spot that we have found and hopefully we will be able to return in the near future but after a second night here it was time to move on.