After a false start whereby Alex missed his original flight he arrived in Rhodes only 12 hours late for the start of his holiday. Caryn went to the airport on the bus to meet him. Interesting trip to the airport on the bus (packed like sardines as it is not a dedicated airport bus but serves all the hotels on the west coast). Svein met us at the bus station on our return and we had a quick meal in town before getting back to the boat so that he could settle in. It is still windy. Whilst we were waiting the Alex to arrive we visited the Turkish consulate regarding resident permits if we decide to stay the winter there.
Next morning we all swam despite it still being very windy and then went into town for lunch with Sybaris. After lunch we wandered through the old town out of the tourist area and saw the main door to the house that Per and Elly have bought. We will have to wait until October to see inside when they have the keys. On our return to the anchorage we saw that Laerke had arrived.
Still windy in Rhodes so we spent time on land window shopping with Alex. Svein spent time on Laerke fixing things and then we all went for lunch on land. We had drinks on board Sybaris before returning to boat to eat and then into town to test Blue Lagoon night life. Stayed for one drink and then back to boat as it was not quite our scene.
After 3 days in Rhodes it was time to move on and show Alex something of Greece. We left the anchorage and made our way to Alimnia under engine as we had strong head winds. We were anchored with a line ashore after 6 hours at sea in a calm bay. Only one catamaran, a gulet and local fisherman in the bay with us. Alex tried his hand at fishing and also collected some sea urchins that, unfortunately, were not edible. He had no luck with the fish except for one small one that was thrown back.
The next morning, before leaving the bay, Alex and Svein spent some time trying to fish but with no success. They saw the fish but they did not bite. Late morning we left the bay for Chalki. Still head winds but only one other boat on the quay when we arrived and we managed a perfect mooring first time. We had lunch on land and then a major internet session so that Alex could catch up on the different sporting events taking place over the weekend. Probably here for a few days as very strong winds forecast and we want to move North so would only be battling head winds and probably swell. Watched France/Spain basket ball final where France lost.
We walked round Chalki in the heat and managed to get internet to talk to the families. Late evening we decided to move back to Alimnia in order to avoid the squeaking of the ropes on the quay. We managed to sail a little although played cat and mouse with the wind and the engine. Alex had bought bait so was keen to try to catch something.
Peace and quiet in Alimnia bay. Alex and Svein organised themselves and we managed to have lunch from their catch. Alex managed to prick himself with one the the spikes on the dorsal fin. This proved very painful and as we were not sure what the fish was Svein took them over to a local fisherman who reassured us that they were good to eat and although the sting was painful it was not dangerous and just needed to be rubbed with lemon.
They both took a long snorkelling session the bay whilst Caryn swam. Evening was dinner on board and then reading with a early night as we shall leave early in the morning to catch the South wind.
Everything was tidied and stored on board so that by 08h00 we were weighing anchor and leaving the bay. The south wind was there and we sailed to Tilos using only the genoa and mizzen. We made very good time although encountered heavy seas. We moored in Tilos harbour half an hour before our scheduled arrival time and then treated ourselves to a good lunch. Mooring was quite difficult because of the cross wind and Alex managed to fall although he did not harm himself. Anyway that is the 3rd mishap so all should go well from now on. Big storm during the night with thunder and lightening over the harbour. As it rained the deck got washed at last.
Early start as there was no wind and we wanted to take advantage before the head winds blew up. We left the harbour at 08h15 and motored all the way with calm seas until the passage between the islands of Tilos and Nisyros. We reached Pali harbour at 11h30 and were met by Nikos. Unsettled weather is forecast with thunder and rain seen in the distance so hope it is not coming our way. Fun and games with a charter Oceanis 50 that managed to cut the anchor line of a Danish boat losing a Fortress anchor and weight together with the line. McGuyer to the rescue.
Early the next morning Svein tested the diving gear by recuperating the lost anchor and weight. Otherwise the day was quiet day and we spent a good deal of time on the beach and swimming. Kostas kindly gave us some lamb.
It was time to play tourist so we hired a car and toured the island with Alex. We shopped in the morning and then visited the volcano, Nikia, Emporio and drove out to the end of the road after Pali. Manana came into the harbour. We bought a water colour from the youngsters camping outside Pali.
It was the day for the celebration and we went to the party organised in the small monastery behind Nikia perched on the edge of the volcano. There was a good turnout with plenty of food and music. Met some French whose family had bought house in Emporio. We eventually got back to the boat round 1am and then Svein and Alex went to Manana for a drink.
Time to leave Nisyros so late afternoon we motored over to Yiali. Had a swim. Alex fished but with no success.
The next morning we left Yaili and motored over to Kardamena. We moored on the quay and had lunch at Teo. We went over to Orchid and saw Jim and Jane. As we had not seen them since Messolonghi we spent a few hours with them catching up and then they came to us for drinks in the evening. Svein and Alex vanished afterwards to watch European foot on the big screens.
Orchid left and Svein and Alex slept late after the late session the night before. Laerke arrived and we had lunch together. Svein and Alex went off to see football matches in the evening. Caryn sent off emails requesting harbour prices to Kos, Kas, Finike for the winter.
We hired a car so that we could visit the island and also do some shopping. Our first port of call the harbour in Kos where we got confirmation of a place for the winter. Other that the trip into Kos we did not see much of the island as the time spent waiting round to see the harbour master and then looking for various items for the boat and doing the shopping ate into the programme. Instead Alex and Caryn went swimming and then collected the filled diving bottle.
We are still in Kardamena as there are very strong winds today. Alex and Caryn went to the beach but although it was possible to swim it was impossible to sit on the beach with all the sand blowing. We had very good dinner at Teo after having eaten lunch on Laerke. Svein helped Niels install the new ladder they had bought the day before.
After watching the England/Scotland match in the Rugby World Cup we had lunch and then left the harbour. We hoisted sails outside the harbour and headed along the coast. We encountered very strong gusts (30+) off the head of Khelona. We managed to sail a little but quickly lowered the main and genoa. We anchored off Kamares bay with strong gusts. The meltemi has not died down here so we will wait it out before rounding the island to head North.
Virtually no wind this morning when we woke up so we weighed anchor and left the bay heading North. We managed to hoist the sails and then motor sailed up to the island of Kalymnos and the bay of Emporio where we picked up a mooring buoy (first of the season). Lovely bay with clear water although we are starting to notice a drop in the temperature. The nights getting definitely a little cooler so need now need a blanket.
We decided to stay in Emporio for the day as the winds were very difficult and we did not want head winds heading to Leros, our next stop. Alex fished and managed to catch enough for a fresh fish dinner with salad. Alex and Svein took the dinghy and tried their luck further out but without success so had to go out to dinner that was good and cheap. We hope to be able to move on tomorrow.
Late morning we left the bay and headed North under engine as we only had head winds. We arrived early afternoon at Lakki bay on Leros island and moored in Lakki marina. We took full advantage of the shower facilities and then visited the town. It is a strange place with no soul.
After spending the morning in Lakki sorting out emails, booking flights to UK and ringing on Skype we left to go South before the strong winds at the weekend. We managed to sail after leaving the bay of Lakki and headed south along the east coast of Kalymnos. We finally reached the fjord of Vathi where we anchored. We met Manolis on the quay who was interested in the PC navigation system in exchange for taking Alex fishing. He is a professional fisherman so should be interesting. The plan is to take Alex into Kalymos to get the right bait and then take the dinghy and try and catch something. So we shall be in Vathi for an extra day whilst Alex enjoys himself and then we shall head for Kos to wait out the storm and finalise the contract for the winter.
Manolis was a no show so no fishing. Instead we wandered round the village that was very charming. We left late morning and managed to sail with all sails, spinnaker and then did a fancy manoeuvre in Kos harbour to anchor. We had decided to stay in the harbour for the night before finalising the winter contract and leaving for Nisyros to sit out the strong southerly due at the weekend. We again met Jim from Orchid. We visited the town and found internet so Caryn was able to alter her UK return to the right date.
We walked to the marina and confirmed our booking for the winter. Jespan was in the harbour so we went to see them as again we had last seen them in Messolonghi. After a little shopping we left the harbour for Nisyros as we wanted to be tucked up there safely during the coming strong winds. The trip took nearly 4 hours under engine but we got a spot on the South quay next to Laerke who had arrived from Kalymnos.
It was a quiet day with plenty of rain overnight and in the morning. Svein worked on flush deck hatches to make them waterproof so hope it works. The test will be tomorrow.
It rained during the night and we had thunderstorm overhead but the hatches no longer leak!!! The harbour is full of people waiting for the bad weather to pass and there is not much happening on the island. We have spent a great deal of time watching the Rugby World Cup and Svein fixed the cable for the antenna so we have good reception on board again.
A very wet day so we stayed on the boat and relaxed. The departure date for Alex is approaching so we must move on. The holiday has already nearly drawn to a close.
We left Nisyros and motored to Symi harbour after an uneventful trip although there was a good deal of swell during the crossing. There are still some scattered showers but as we had not seen rain since May it is appreciated. The locals are all saying that this bout of rain has come much earlier in the season than in previous years. Even in Symi one can feel the season drawing to a close with far fewer tripper boats although there seems to be a never ending stream of yachts.
We are still in Symi harbour. Svein has found a very good chandler so has bought new manual pump for cockpit bilges and also some fishing gear. We had some fun and games when a charter boat tried to leave the harbour. He had placed his anchor chain at right angles and half way up the harbour so inevitably we were over it and had to go out to release him and then reanchor.
It is time to leave Symi and return to Rhodes so that Alex can catch his flight. We motor sailed across and Alex caught a yellow fin tuna (that we lost) and then a 1.5kg tuna that we managed to land. We anchored outside the harbour and were invited to dinner in Per and Elly’s new house in the old town along with Captain Jacques, his guests and Per’s brother and his wife. The tuna was cooked on BBQ and everyone (10) managed to get a slice. It is a lovely house and our housewarming present went down well. We had made a cord mat using the Napoleon knot.
Alex had an early flight today so Caryn went to the airport with him whilst Svein helped Per take Sybaris on land for the winter. We all met up at the house for lunch together with Keith (Castor and Pollux) who was over from Marmaris renewing his visa. In the afternoon we moved into the superyacht quay for at least one night. The good weather is back with lots of sun and we are now getting used to being just the two of us on board again. We now have two weeks to wait before we take up our winter mooring in Kos marina.
So nice to read me up on your events. I did like the fish pedicure, was it good?? I could need one myself……….. We had a nice vacation to Kreta, hey….why do I write in english?? Vi var der 14 dager i september, bodde privat i Kera, skal tilbake i mai. Og dere blir i Kos i vinter? Ja det blir sikkert kos 🙂 Her er høsten virkelig kommet med regn og vind, løvfall og mørke kvelder, en koselig innetid. Ha en fiin høst. Hilsen Reidunn
Hi,
I am a budding cruiser and have yet to take the plunge and buy a boat, but I am looking at lots and trying to decide how big, what material, ketch or sloop, where the best places for finding anchorages are and what times of year you have to “winter” it out… etc…
I like how C’est la vie looks and I have been wondering what make she is and what are the specifications?
Thanks for the blog site and keep on cruising!