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After a good sail we reached the bay of Livadia on Tilos in the early afternoon and anchored off the beach. There were not too many boats when we arrived although quite a few arrived in the later afternoon. Nothing seemed to have changed since our last visit and for the first night we did not bother to go ashore. We spent the day and evening gently recovering from the previous night’s festivities. The next morning we decided to stay another day as we had no fixed plans until the middle of September. We lazed on the boat and took full advantage of the clear water to cool down in. In the evening we took the dinghy ashore and wandered the streets. We made an unsuccessful attempt to dine in one restaurant that said they were open but continued to ignore us after we had sat down. After a short wait we left and went to the town square where we had a drink and then found a new restaurant upstairs over the supermarket that had a fantastic view over the bay and all the activities. We watched the local ferry come and disgorge the holidaymakers and after the meal made our way back to the boat for a good nights sleep.

The next day we decided to explore some of the other bays in Tilos and duly set out to find them. Unfortunately the two we visited we were unable to anchor in as they were very deep and there was a great deal of swell so we decided to head for Chalki. We had a good sail until we reached the SW corner of Chalki and then we encountered a tail wind and a great deal of swell that made the latter part of the trip very uncomfortable. We eventually anchored in the bay outside the harbour with a line ashore although the first anchoring attempt failed and we brought up a mooring chain and a deflated marker buoy. The second attempt was successful and we were safely anchored for the night.

We enjoyed the anchorage so much that we stayed there another day and took the dinghy into town to stretch our legs a little and hook up to internet. Whilst on land an enormous ferry came in to the harbour and it really looked as though all the boats on the quay would be hit. It was a very weird optical illusion.

After a quiet night at anchorage the next day Svein checked on the quay to find out the conditions and discovered there was water available with no limit. At last a chance to wash down the boat after the salt sprays endured whilst in Nisyros. We waited until the quay was free and duly made our way over there to have the wind pick up just at that moment. We had to take 3 attempts to get the anchor to take and finally we were moored. Just as we had finished the owners of the boat next to us returned and prepared to leave. We were able to get the mooring that we wanted at last alongside the inside of the hammer head so were securely fastened. The wind blew up and we suffered very strong gusts from the west for several hours that pulled on the ropes but there were no problems. Several boats came into shelter and there was some fun and games on the quay getting everyone settled in. We duly paid our dues (€12) and filled with water, washed the boat down and put the urgent washing into soak overnight.

After a fairly bumpy night we decided to stay at quay another day and Svein did some odd jobs on the boat. Our neighbours from Athens kept Svein supplied with real expresso coffee something he has not drunk for some time. A lunch on land and a lazy afternoon swimming from the quay. It really is the good life. In the evening we had the pleasant surprise of being offered a free night at quay.

Early the next day we said goodbye to the neighbours and headed the short distance to Alimnia the subject of a separate chapter.

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What an experience! After the strong winds that had kept us in the harbour we were getting ready to leave when we heard about the celebrations for the 15^th August and we were persuaded to stay a few days longer. It was obviously a big occasion as the harbour was overcrowded and there were boats anchored outside (a first for us since we have been coming here). In addition there were calls from people asking for hire cars and hotel rooms although everything had been booked for months. Anyway Mike had promised to drive us to the festivities to be held at the Kyra monastery on the way to Nikia. After a little bit of a muddle we were eventually collected at 19h15 and driven there in his father/s 1991 Subaru that he had brought back from the States and was still using. We arrived early on site but it enabled us to see the surroundings, visit the church and the monastery (that is kept in pristine condition by donations) and to see the preparations and the band warming up, The food that would be served was all cooked by volunteers from the town of Pali. As there was still fasting the meal consisted of a salad followed by a bean dish (the meat dish would be served the following day at lunch). Everything was cooked in very large pots over an open wooden fire and was delicious. There must have been between 500 and 600 people participating. The music was non stop and everyone danced all the traditional dances that seemed to go on forever. We eventually left at 1h30 but heard the next that some had got home at 5am. On the way back we visited the monastery of St John the Theologian that overlooks Nikia as Mike was very proud of the fact that after 8 years the access road had at last been tarred.

The following day we said our goodbyes and left the harbour to continue our journey and headed for Tilos.

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Plenty of movement in the harbour  with boats coming and going. Crazy Dreams has arrived so our 3rd meeting this summer and an excuse for Caryn to have some drinks with them and to eat out.

Caryn took the bus into Mandraki to post a letter to Alex with all the details of getting to the harbour from the harbour and then did some shopping in preparation for Svein’s return.

Ginny arrived today in time for the Sybaris celebration. The wind has started picking up so put out an extra rope. Our dinghy was borrowed by a neighbour to help a third boat that was in trouble as he had dragged. Caryn was busy getting the boat ready for Svein’s return tomorrow.

Svein was collected from the ferry by Mike (Eagle’s Nest) and as he arrived on the quay Sybaris also arrived. Svein was very tired from a 30 hour journey but many were awaiting to see him and give him a drink. After a liquid lunch on Crazy Dreams  we both retired to have a snooze before meeting up for a farewell dinner.

Crazy Dreams has moved on and today is the day for the birthday celebrations. Caryn made an orange cheesecake for coffee on board Sybaris. The celebration started with a coffee and cake session on Sybaris and then drinks to end the evening with a delicious diner at Aphrodite.

Ginny and Sybaris have moved on but we are expecting Miss Cat who will get some birthday cake. Went to the beach with Svein for a reviving swim.

Again a trip to the beach as it will be a few days before we can get there again with the winds that are predicted. Charisma arrived late and moored beside us.

The wind has steadily picked up during the day and was reading 30+ by mid afternoon with the prospect of it rising later in the evening as the peak was forecast at 3am. We are safely moored and not feeling it too much as it is NW. A few new boats have turned up and they must have had a hairy sail. After 24 hours the wind is still blowing and the sea is sometimes coming over the digue. A charter boat left has they were due to return their charter boat. We are very glad that we no longer have the deadline problem and can just wait out the wind before moving on.

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It has been a quiet time whilst Svein has been in Norway. An opportunity to clean and check out the storage cupboards and to visit the beach to swim and read in the shade of the trees. The weather has been very hot and sultry with winds of all forces and from all directions but apart from the daily worry of other boats dropping over our anchor everything has been snug on the boat. A visit to Mandraki to top up the telephone and wander round the town has been the most adventurous outing unlike the horrors that awaited Svein on his arrival in Norway. Fortunately he and his family are all safe and well. Svein seems to be in need of a holiday on his return at the end of the week as he has been driving great distances round Norway visiting the family in their various homes but he has also managed to spend a few days in the family cabin in the mountains. Hopefully the temperature shock will not be too drastic when he gets back. He will need to be on form as it will be a busy time meeting friends in Nisyros to celebrate the birthdays of Elly and Per on Sybaris. After that we have no plans until the middle of September when Alex (Caryn’s son) will come for a visit.

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We left Turgutreis with no wind but eventually got some side wind so hoisted sails. We spoke to Keith and Angie on VHF as we passed each other (they were on their way to check into Turkey).  We rounded the head after Kos town and hit  winds 25+ and then nothing!. We had winds from all directions today which meant we managed to sail a good bit of the way. With just two yachts on the water we had a very close encounter with an Italian boat under engine (whilst we were sailing) that had nobody on deck as a lookout. Caryn managed to attract their attention whilst Svein was fixing the bilge pump in the engine room. They hit the davit fixture but it was a very close call. We  came into Kardamena to find the harbour full but after some negotiations with the harbour police we managed to get a mooring amongst the tripper boats although some of them were not pleased. Whilst there we decided to do a shop and were kindly lent a car by Veronica. The boat is now stocked up again (we were down to our last 6 beers!!!!) before leaving for Nisyros. We had dinner at our usual haunt in town. The evening however was very tense as the town was  teeming with English students living it up after their exams who were up until 6h30 the next morning. There is no way that Caryn is going to spend  2 weeks here on her own with the boat whilst Svein is in Norway.

We left the mooring and made our way to Pali on Nisyros where we were due to meet Prydwen. We arrived late morning to be welcomed with open arms by everyone. It was good to be back. Jean Francois and Francoise had already arrived together with Corinne and Philippe Jeantot who are on their way to Thailand the long way round. Svein worked on satellite telephone problem for Philippe and we all had dinner in Aphrodite. Nikos presented Svein with eggs from his farm.

Time to tidy the boat but only managed to wash half the floor before the heat got to be too much and got the washing done. With the sunshine the first load was dry by midday. It is very hot despite the breeze. Corinne and Philippe left for Crete and Svein helped Jean Francois with his computer. Michael  (from the car rental company) asked him to paint a sign for him. We had drinks on Prydwen after Francoise and Caryn had been to the beach where Francoise had her first swim of the year. We had dinner at Antonio’s and came home with a bag of home grown tomatoes.

Finished the washing and washing the floor before the heat set in. Svein completed the sign for Mike and we all swam off the beach. Had drinks on board C’est la Vie and  finished with a meal at Aphrodite. Unfortunately we have been told that we much leave the harbour for 24 hours as there is a regatta coming. We have had confirmation that Sybaris is on its way so Prydwen has decided to stay and see them. We shall both leave tomorrow morning and anchor of the island of Yiali.

The anchorage is beautiful although the island is very scarred from the excavation of the sand. We went ashore and found a strange phenomenon in the water – bubbles of air coming  through the sand.  We had a BBQ on the beach and managed to get a very good sunset photo. As soon as the regatta leaves we shall return to Nisyros and get the boat settled in before Svein leaves for Norway.

We waited until 10h30 for the  regatta departure. We thought that as there was quite a bit of wind in the bay we would have a good sail across and  prepared all the sails. As soon as we hoisted the anchor and were underway the wind dropped so we motored back to Pali.  We moored on the North wall of the harbour.  Sybaris arrived and we all had dinner together with Prydwen at Aphrodite. Temperatures are rising again.

After a quiet day with visits to the beach we all had a farewell dinner for everyone on board Sybaris with orange cheesecake, far breton and nasi goreng.

Prydwen left to continue their travels. It has been very difficult to finalise how Svein is going to get to Kos to catch his plane as there are uncertainties about the ferries and the taxis so when Sybaris offered to take him as they were going to spend the night in Kos it was the perfect solution. Svein went of board and they left for Kos. It was apparently a bumpy ride that took 6 hours as they battled winds that at one point were 32 knots. In Nisyros it was windy and unpleasant on the beach. Svein caught his flight after a long wait in the airport so he will probably arrive very tired.