We are slowly recovering from the storm and are picking up the pieces. We have contacted the insurance company and are collating the information for them.

We decided that in the event of bad weather again we would stay on the South side of the harbour and rely on our anchor. In order to do so we have increased the size and have bought a new anchor (35kg Kobra) in Kos marina. They delivered it to the ferry and we received it on Wednesday evening. That was quick service everything done in one day. It was installed on the chain so quickly that there was no time to take a photograph. We immediately moved over to the South side and installed ourselves again.

There have been some squalls but the worst was last night or should we say early this morning at 3.30am. The anchor was put to good test as a squall came through that lasted 3 hours. “Charisma” was out checking their anchor later in the morning and also checked ours. It is so dug in that you can only see the attachment to the chain!!!! Feel much safer now.

Alpha antenna also arrived by post today so hopefully our internet connection will be more reliable and we shall be able to call from the boat instead of going on land.

Svein in on the last part of the DVD so we are hoping to be able to ship them out on Monday.

What a day and night! We woke on Saturday morning to strengthening winds. Svein quickly went off to the baker for bread and then parked the car on the far side of the harbour (away from the spray). Mike (Eagle’s Nest) rang us from Athens and said that he would arrange for the car to be washed as the sea recks havoc with the paintwork. We then sat and waited. Sure enough the wind levels rose and by midday we were in a constant waterfall. The water was pouring over the breakwater and into the harbour.It was impossible to stand on the quay. Svein managed to move the bicycles (that we had left on the quay) to a safer spot but not without great difficulty. We bunkered down in the boat and watched everything from the doghouse and tried to record events through the windows. The catamaran that had arrived Friday evening moved over to the south side alongside. Mid afternoon the gullet still moored on the south side dragged its 3 anchors and moved over to raft to the ferry. Shortly after its arrival the aft moorings on the ferry broke and she swung out into the harbour held only by her front mooring lines. By this time the wind was somewhere round 11 Beaufort (we could not check as it was impossible to get into the cockpit) and against all odds the ferry started its engines and came alongside the quay again. Stronger ropes were put out but on waking up this morning we saw that they had again changed the ropes during the night for even stronger ones. The wind continued at this strength all night and at the moment is still blowing strongly although there is less spray coming over the wall at the moment.

Lamp posts have lost their lights, electricity posts have been ripped out, stones and rocks have come over the wall and the two barges moored at the entrance to the harbour have broken their moorings and gone aground on the beach. As we write they are firing lines from the shore onto the barges to try and free them.

Unfortunately we have also faired badly. We have lost the wind generator, the radar has been severely damaged and the targa system holding the solar panels and dinghy has been badly twisted. Physically we are fine if a little cold as the electricity went off and we woke up this morning to 6 degrees in the boat. We hope the pictures will give you all some idea of what we experienced and must admit hope never to have to go through it again.

Having recovered from the trip to Kos we have been taking it relatively easily on the boat since. Svein is working really hard on the DVD with very long hours to ensure that it is ready. We went with Carmen and Peter (Charisma) into the Port Police but came away none the wiser except that apparently there exists a tax for boats staying longer than 3 months in a harbour “but it would be too expensive for us” so nothing was done other than checking our papers.

We are experiencing winds from all directions at the moment so to be prepared for the very strong North Westerlies forecast for the end of the week we have all moved over to the North side of the harbour. It does mean that we get the sun for a little longer each day.

Caryn went looking for the thermal spring today but did not manage to find it as it meant rock climbing and as she was on her own she did not dare attempt the climb. She will have to wait for another day and have someone with her.

3^rd December 2010

We were up bright and early so as not to miss the ferry over to Kardamena that leaves at 07h30. Carmen (Charisma) had also set her alarm clock. We set off for Mandraki and arrived in such good time that our car was the first on board. The ferry takes few cars and places are at a premium in particular on a Friday it would seem when one of the cars was parked in the access to the saloon (see picture). The ferry trip was short andin no time it seemed we were on our way to shop. Svein needed some special hinges for the new table so we stopped off at every stainless steel store and chandler on the island. We had no luck as we only found 2 and he needed 4. As it is winter the shops are not restocking so we shall order from the internet. Having no success here we continued into Kos town to look for some special shoes for Caryn and to visit the optician. The shoe search was also a failure (will order them from the internet) and to boot Caryn managed to fall over in the street damaging her new glasses. Next stop the optician who very kindly repaired the glasses and also gave her a bottle of cold water to stop the swelling and brusing on her cheek. With the glasses repaired with great efficiency and Carmen having successfully bought the clothes she wanted we headed off for the first of the food shops. We quickly visited Carrefour and bought what we all needed from there and then went to the Chinese shop next door but here found nothing to buy. We then headed off to Lidl and stocked up (as it have been 5 weeks since the last big shop) including some goodies for Xmas. After here we started making our way back to Kardamena with a quick stop at the AB supermarket to get mascarpon cheese for the Tiramisu. On arriving at Kardamena we finished off the shopping by stocking up on tobacco for Svein and then ate a well deserved lunch whilst we waited for the ferry departure. Again safely on board we left for Nisyros but the shopping was too much for Svein so he recovered by sleeping all the way. Carmen and Caryn watched the sun setting over the sea. We reached the boats late evening and unloaded the car. Everything was stored and we found room for all. We finished the evening by enjoying a filet mignon in cream and mushroom sauce which was the perfect ending to an exhausting but enjoyable day bar the fall.

2^nd December 2010

Our new leds arrived last week and Svein has been busy changing the bulbs in all our lamps. It makes a great deal of difference for both reading and the batteries as those already installed are equal to one of the old lamps.

We duly visited the Coast guards on 1^st December but are no wiser as to the reason as the boss was not in the office and will not be there for another week.

We are following with interest the weather forecasts over Europe and are very glad that we are out of it. We have had strong winds but the temperatures are still up in the 20s which is greatly appreciated.

It is a race against time now for Svein to edit the DVD but he is hard at it and we should be able to send them out shortly. As a result the table for the mizzen has taken a bit of a back seat.

Tomorrow we take the ferry to Kardamena on Kos to have an outing and to stock up. Yesterday in Mandraki we had the nasty surprise of not being able to buy meat in either of the butchers. We must remember not to shop on a Wednesday!!!!

22^nd November 2010

We are enjoying fantastic weather although we had some strong winds and rain last week. However the deck is still waterproof.

We have had a busy time since the last update. We took the ferry into Kos town to collect Caryn’s new glasses. It was just a short trip as the ferry docked at 09h15 and left again at 12h00. This is paraticular to the Saturday crossing. The next time we shall go to Kardamena and take the hire car with us so that we can do a large shop.

In addition Caryn added another year but she was spoilt. A new laptop was ordered and, on the trip to Kos, a new camera was also bought. She has been busy trying it out in and about the island. The new leds were also ordered through internet. The new computer has been safely delivered and she is now writing the update on it.

Svein also ordered the wood to start the seating project and has been busy making the table.

The retaurant Aphrodite has closed down for the winter but we still see Nikos who constantly plies us with things from his farm all of which are very welcome.

Caryn and Carmen from Charisma have been busy picking herbs. They have found thyme and oregano and have dried large quantities. Capers are also to be found and we were introduced to a salad made with their leaves when we went to dine with Mike from Eagle’s Nest.

We have also been to Nikia to participate in the celebration of the church’s saint. This involved a lunch where we were served salad, beans and fish with a greek speciality make of garlic, bread and almonds. The latter is very potent.

Caryn is either cycling or walking every day and has even threatened to go swimming again as the water is rumoured to be about 22 degrees!!!!!

At the festivities in Nikia we were approached by the Coastguard chief who has asked us to visit his office on 1^st December. We do not know what it means as Svein had already been into see him on our arrival. He had told him of our intention to stay the winter but he did not seem interested. Now he is so we will have to wait and see. We are now three boats in Pali harbour: a German “Charisma” with Peter and Carmen on board, an Italian “Nervana” with Gorgio and his wife and ourselves. Boats on passage are still stopping but only stay one or two days just the time to visit the volcano.

2^nd November 2010

We have been here a week now and have managed to hire a car (between 3 boats), do a major shop and order new glasses for Caryn from the optician in Kos town. The weather has been of summer standard and we have been sitting out on deck until the sun goes down. Laerke sailed over with Svein and they shall leave tomorrow for Leros and we shall sail back to Pali. We shall probably divide our time between the two islands over the winter as we have free mooring, water and electricity in both harbours.

We shall try and keep you updated on the events over the winter so that you all know what progress we are making on our winter projects.

20^th October 2010

The ferry trip to Kardamena on Kos was uneventful but the same cannot be said of the flights to the UK. The outgoing flight was delayed (as the company had its license revoked) but they laid on another flight. The end result was that Caryn arrived at her mothers house at midnight having left Pali at 07h00.

The stay was fairly uneventful but enabled her to see her mother’s doctor and get her eyes tested. The main problem was the cold and the rain as the temperatures were nothing like those that had bee left behind in Greece. The return journey was even more harassing and took 36 hours from the time she left the flat to her arrival back on the boat. As the ferry did not coincide with her arrival Svein brought the boat over to Kardamena.

27^th September 2010

We hoisted the anchor early and headed out of the bay heading for Nisyros. We headed up the east coast of the island and then rounded the head and keeping Turkey to starboard we motored all day as there was a head wind (as usual). We anchored in Pali harbour mid afternoon.

We renewed acquaintances with the different people we had met and made new friends in particular Anna who is a master as embroidery and sewing.

Nils and Ellen on Laerke have still not arrived as they have encountered heavy winds around Amorgos and before arriving in Nisyros they will visit Leros and make their winter arrangements in the new harbour there.

We have explored the town of Mandraki and found the different shops that we will need including a chandler where Svein did a super deal on new anchoring ropes. We spent an afternoon splicing and making them ready for use. He also repaired the frame for the deck hatch in the saloon. He is also preparing the work that he wants to do in the winter particularly a sitting area on deck round the mizzen mast. The drawings look good so we can only hope that the finished product will also be as good and practical.

We had the opportunity of testing the work that Svein has done to waterproof the boat when we had some heavy winds and rain over a few days. Eureka the boat is now dry which is a great relief as we no longer need our art deco decoration of empty water bottles to catch the drips!!!!!!!

The harbour in Pali has been very busy with up to 40 boats on occasions and the social life has been quite hectic. Some Norwegian charter boats came through and Svein was able to help them with computer problems and we enjoyed some very pleasant dinners as a result. It is amazing to see the number of boats and nationalities that have found the harbour.

After surfing internet Caryn found some very cheap flights to the UK so she planned to go over for a week in mid October. Svein hired a car to drive her to the ferry and we also took the time to explore the island a little further including a visit to a fantastic castle that has been restored and overlooks Mandraki.

20^th October 2010

The ferry trip to Kardamena on Kos was uneventful but the same cannot be said of the flights to the UK. The outgoing flight was delayed (as the company had its license revoked) but they laid on another flight. The end result was that Caryn arrived at her mothers house at midnight having left Pali at 07h00.

The stay was fairly uneventful but enabled her to see her mother’s doctor and get her eyes tested. The main problem was the cold and the rain as the temperatures were nothing like those that had bee left behind in Greece. The return journey was even more harassing and took 36 hours from the time she left the flat to her arrival back on the boat. As the ferry did not coincide with her arrival Svein brought the boat over to Kardamena.

2^nd November 2010

We have been here a week now and have managed to hire a car (between 3 boats), do a major shop and order new glasses for Caryn from the optician in Kos town. The weather has been of summer standard and we have been sitting out on deck until the sun goes down. Laerke sailed over with Svein and they shall leave tomorrow for Leros and we shall sail back to Pali. We shall probably divide our time between the two islands over the winter as we have free mooring, water and electricity in both harbours.

We shall try and keep you updated on the events over the winter so that you all know what progress we are making on our winter projects.

  24^th September 2010

As it is only a short run to Pedi Bay we left late morning and motored up the East coast of the island checking other anchorage possibilities on the way. We anchored in Pedi Bay after an hour’s journey. As we were not too happy with our anchorage we seized the chance to move when another boat left. The next day we felt we were a little too close to shore so moved a little further out. We then rowed into shore and caught the bus into Simi town. That was a journey and Caryn will not be sitting in the front bus seats again! We drove up steep hills on a very narrow road (barely room for one car) and then to crown it all the drive into Simi was along the edge of the quay with not guardrails between the road and the sea!!! We left the bus and explored the town on foot. Again a pleasant town but the harbour did not appeal to us. We window shopped (sponges, leather goods of all kinds, embroidery and the usual tourist souvenirs) and again wandered round the back streets out of the milling crowds that the tripper boats from Rhodes had brought across for the day. After three hours of climbing streets and steps we quickly restored ourselves with a local beer before catching the bus back to Pedi. Here we were sitting it out whilst a strong SE blew up. For the first time this year we had an anchor watch as the bay had filled up considerably with boats and not all were well placed nor well anchored. A neighbouring Danish boat dragged twice and on his third attempt to re-anchor (at 03h00 in the morning) his gearbox broke down so he was very badly placed between us and another boat and he had to set out 3 anchors to hold himself free of everyone. Not the easiest of situations as the wind was very fickle and kept coming in gusts off the hills. Two catamarans also dragged in the early hours and had to change their anchorages.

The drama continued the next day when the Danish boat continued to drag and was eventually towed out of the bay by another Dane so that they could make their way to Turkey where the boat could be repaired. Not an easy journey as the wind was still blowing very strongly. We shall sit it out for another night and then make our way back to Nisyros where we shall pick up our post and wait for news of “Laerke” who are leaving Messolonghi and coming to join us.

 15^th September 2010

We have left Chalki mid morining after doing some shopping and starting making our way to Lindos on Rhodes island. After the shelter of the bay we motorsailed (sometimes reaching 9.6 knots!) in heavy swell for several hours until we rounded the head of Ak Prasson. From then on to Lindos we were able to sail with a good wind and very good speed (6 knots) until we dropped our anchor in the bay of Lindos in the early evening. We are not sure how long we shall be staying here but must visit the castle this time as we missed out when we were here in 1994 as we were trying to get water for the charter boat.

We went ashore and wandered up the steep hill and through the town getting our bearings. The streets are full of tourists and tourist shops. However we did see some fantastic buildings dating from the 16^th and 18^th centuries that are still inhabited. The 18^th century house had originally belonged to the current owner’s grandmother and had on display 400 year old pottery plates as well as a 40kg embroidered bed canopy that was used on wedding nights. Apparently there are only 3 in existence now. We found a laundry that also had an enormous library that sold or exchanged secondhand books. This was Ali Baba’s cavern for Caryn who will be returning to find some new reading material.

The next day we returned to the town by a different route (the streets really steep with lots of steps) and found our way back to the laundry. Caryn spent some time exchanging her books and stocking up on new ones. We then meandered back down to the beach where we had a leisurely lunch overlookng the bay.

We have decided to stay an extra day just relaxing, swimming in the quiet bay off the town and just watching the bustle of the tripper boats, coming from Rhodes, that discharge them onto the town for a few hours thereby considerably swelling the locals and holiday population for a few hours every day.

19^th September 2010

Time to move on so around 11h00 we hoisted the anchor and left the bay of Lindos. Our destination today in the town of Rhodes. Here we want to see the possibilities of a winter mooring. We motorsailed up the coast in very light winds until we reached the head Ak Voudhi where we met 25m/s winds from 0. We anchored outside the harbour after a 3 hour journey and went for a swim.

We launched the dinghy and took it into the fishing harbour so that we could see and explore the town. We meandered around the old town and eventually stopped and treated ourselves to a dinner at a restaurant on one of the old cobbled streets and then returned to the boat for a good sleep:

The next day we first checked out the harbour and at the end of the quay saw a Norwegian flag. Svein stopped for a chat and this gave us the information as to who was the harbour master. He was running around on his scooter directing the different arrivals but we managed to stop him and ask when it would be possible to spend a night in the marina. We were told to call him on channel 9 in the afternoon for an update. We left the marina and walked off in search of the company A1. We walked past the ferry and commercial harbours and in the end discovered that they had moved offices our of town. So instead we went in search of the tourist office. It was very necessary to take some food on board and as the town has a wide variety of shops we needed the information as the best way to get to them. On our way we purchased a map and then found the tourist office. Here we got very valuable information concerning the two Lidl shops and the AB supermarket on the outskirts of town as well as other food shops in the town itself, We set off to explore the Pappou (Coop) supermarket and this took us into the new town. The town has a wide variety of shops (for all tastes) and seems very pleasant. We also picked up bus timetables as this would also be necessary for our next excursions. We then returned to the boat and contacting the harbour. We managed to get a slot for the next morning so spent a second night at anchor.

The next morning we were called up on the VHF and were met at the harbour entrance and directed to our mooring. All went well and as we were safely moored we then started on our shopping expedition. As the first bus station redirected us to the local buses we called in at another tourist information centre on our way there to learn which bus would take us to our destination. We eventually boarded the bus and a very helpful driver told us where to get off. We had travelled to the outskirts of the town into an industrial zone but we found our shops very easily and did our big shop. Heavily laden we walked back to the bus stop to wait for the return bus. On the way we passed a car wash and as there was a taxi being washed Caryn asked him the cost of the taxi ride to the harbour. For 7 euros (an extra cost of 5 euros compared to the bus ride) we saved on time, energy and were driven directly to the boat where we were unable to load. All in all a very satisfactory day.

The next day we were unable to secure a second night in harbour so as the wind was rising we left our mooring and returned to our anchorage where we stayed for another night. Svein wandered off to the chandler to buy a few bits and pieces and in particular a chain lock so that we could add an extra 10 metres length to our main anchor chain. We also watched the ballet of cruise ships that visited the island. Some days as many as 5. These were manoeuvred into place by either one or two tugs who then repeated the performance when they left as the end of the visit as no ship stayed longer than 12 hours in harbour. One day we saw the 2 Club Mediterannean boats together with Royal Caribbean cruise ship Navigator of the Sea.

23^rd September 2010

As we had spent our time gleaning information and shopping we had not had time to visit the old town or take any photos so on our last day (for the time being) in Rhodes we went and wandered round the old town. We only covered a fraction of it but found some very interesting streets that were off the beaten track and these we were able to study in the shade. We returned to the new market for a quick drink (prices here are much more affordable and the people are very friendly). We met a Finnish waitress who gave us lots of tips about the town and what it was like in the winter. Svein had already got the price from the harbour office so we hope to get a place in early December. We returned to the boat and after a quick lunch we hoisted the anchor and set out for the island of Simi. We had head winds all the way and a fairly bumpy sea but by late afternoon we were safely anchored in the Bay of Marathouda for the night.

9th September 2010

We prepared to leave and by midday we were heading out of the harbour for Tilos. Unfortunately we did not have much wind but choppy seas and as it was a short distance we anchored in the bay round 16h00. We were anxious to visit the town and see the changes that had taken place since our first visit in 1994 on our first charter in Greece. Many changes had taken place and to start with the harbour had been improved with laid moorings but it is still very small, However the taverna on the quay that had given us water, showers and a memorable meal no longer existed. The building was there but it had become holiday flats. The town was also full of expatriates and holiday makers mainly from the UK but some also from Germany. We were a little disappointed but I suppose it is only to be expected.

We had intended to leave the next day but on wandering down to the harbour again we discovered that the Cruising Association flotilla en route for Crete was coming in and as “Rosa di Venti” who we had wintered with in Messolonghi was participating we decided to wait until their arrival to greet them. In the end they were faster than us and they came out to the boat in their dinghy. We caught up with each other’s news but unfortunately did not see them before our departure as they were not on board when we called on them later in the evening.

11^th September 2010

It is time to move on and we are heading for Chalki. This is also an island we visited in 1994 and expect to find many changes there also. We had a good sail and managed to find a spot on the jetty on our second attempt. There was a side wind and on the first attempt Svein had forgotten to check the depth and we had dropped our anchor in 20 m so needless it did not take on the first try!

We shall be here for a few days as there is a strong meltemi forecast for Monday. We were invited for coffee aboard “Cadenza” before they left. They will be wintering in Crete together with “Rosa di Venti”. We changed our mooring the next morning when the two other sail boats had left the quay as we wanted to be on the right side for the expected wind. Once we were settled in we started to explore the town on foot. Very narrow streets that hug the hillside and many houses being restored for the tourists although quite a few are still abandoned. During our stay we have covered the whole town and taken many photos. One of the things that has struck us is the clarity of the water even at 20m! The people are friendly but it is obvious that the holiday season is over for the town although there are still a few holiday makers scattered. We have been very impressed by the ferries that are entering the harbour. They are getting bigger and bigger and they manoeuvre with such facility in such tight spaces. We will probably be moving on tomorrow for Rhodes but all will depend on the weather.

With a nasty weather forecast we decided to stay another day in Chalki. Svein did some odd jobs on the boat and we met an English couple on board “Miranda” who winter in Marmaris Yacht harbour and only had good things to say about it.

3^rd September 2010

Time to say goodbye to Terr Iona who will be wintering in Tunisia this year and to head for Nisyros where we will meet up with “Sybaris”. Although NW winds were forecast we got W and in addition had some very choppy seas for the short journey to Nisyros. After a short journey we were able to moor in Pali harbour (despite the cross wind) safely and will now be here for the next week.

4^th September 2010

Per has returned from his travels but Elly is still away. We spent a while getting our bearings and relaxing by going to the nearby beach for a swim as it is no longer possible to swim in the harbur. Very nice harbour at a fraction of the price of Kos and the surroundings are better also. Many German boats but most people use it as an overnight stop.

We have worked on the website, had some good meals in the local restaurant and been every day to the beach to swim and read our books. Svein has also helped Per with some maintenance on his boat.

We have decided to hire a scooter to visit the island. We duly set off (with a very dubious Caryn as pillion) and climbed the hills up to the crater that forms the central part of the island. Needless to say Caryn had problems so whilst she waited at the top Svein continued down to the crater to get his photos. We then continued on to visit the mountain village of Emporio. A dellightful place carved ut of the rocks and perched high on the top of the crater rim. We wandered around the streets but unfortunately not many inhabitants. Many derelict stone houses but those that are being restored are being beautifully done. We then went to Mandraki (the capital) and met Per who had come to collect Elly off the ferry. On returning to Pali we discovered that there was a festival/party in Emporio that same evening so we organised a hire car to go up there. No way Caryn was getting on a scooter again and certainly not in the dark. Mike at the firm “Eagle’s Nest” was very helpful and gave us a car for a very good price. It was a good evening with good food and very good music and plenty of locals dancing in the village square.

We had long discussions with Per and Elly concerning the Red Sea as a possible alternative to wintering in Greece and Turkey and it only remains for us to do the calculations to see what it possible.

Per and Elly leave today (08-09) to go to Simi and then Marmaris before heading for Cyprus. We are here for another day and have spent it quietly on the boat doing the last minute jobs (washing, epoxy the saloon hatch). We leave for Tilos tomorrow which is a short hop and will then continue to Khalki and Alimia before reaching Rhodes. We have really enjoyed Nisyros and hope to be back here again another time.

31^st August 2010

We got an early start to be sure that we reached Kos harbour in good time to get a place. By late morning we had arrived as were able to moor next to “Terr Iona” (Katy and Daniel) who had wintered in Mesolonghi. We connected up to electricity and water and got our bearings. As we shall be here for a few days we got out the bicycles and got a map of the town.

The next morning we found the laundry (the first since we had left Mesolonghi), window shopped, wandered through the old town and bought a few groceries. Katy and Daniel came over for a drink and we ended up having pesto pasta quite late in the evening.

The next day we cycled down to Kos Marina to enquire about prices and although the harbour looked good it was expensive and we were not impressed by the welcome in the office. We will not be choosing Kos for the winter.

27^th August 2010

What a day. We waited for the wind to drop and late morning hoisted the anchor and started on our way to Samos. The sea was extremely bumpy and the wind very unpredictable. It was supposed to drop but we had gusts of 25 to 30 knots regularly and although we had hoisted the sails it was necessary to motor sail. The distance to Samos was 37 nM until the tip but what we had not realised was that to reach our destination of Pythagorion there was another 33Nm so all in all we were at sea for 10 and a half hours and travelled 60nm. After 3 hours into the journey the auto pilot refused to answer so for the rest of the journey it was good old fashioned hand steering which we took it in turns to do. To crown it all, on our approach to Pythagorion we suddenly saw winds of 25 knots and we had to anchor in the dark as we arrived at 22h30! This we achieved and it was two very tired souls that went to bed after a quick snack.

28thAugust 2010

We awoke bright and rested and were able to take in our surroundings. A large bay protected by a huge breakwater. The water was crystal clear and we sere surrounded by sailing yachts. After a little while the boats started leaving and we were able to move to a better anchorage before taking the dinghy into town to explore. We shopped buying things that we needed (including a Turkish courtesy flag and a new Greek one as our current is now falling to bits). After a quick lunch we returned to the boat and had a well deserved swim. Svein checked out the auto pilot and luckily all it needed was a new fuse. We then decided that the next island was not too far away and we had time to reach it before nightfall. We therefore lifted the anchor and left the island of Samos for Agathonisi. We are now leaving the Sporades islands and heading for the Dodancese islands. We were lucky with the wind and were able to sail for the better part of the journey. We reached the island in the early evening (before sundown) and were able to anchor in a bay not too far from the town. A quick swim and after taking a line ashore we took the dinghy into the village in order to find a taverna for dinner. We chose “Georg Tavern” and had the best and cheapest meal that we have eaten since our arrival in Greece a little over a year ago. Back to the boat and a night’s rest before moving on tomorrow.

29^th August 2010

After a gently morning swim we decided to move on and so hoisted the anchor late morning to head over to the island of Lipso. We had gently SW winds (head on) so motored all the way but on a sea that was like a millpond. We reached the bay of Sokoro in the early afternoon and once again anchored outside the harbour. An intriguing village that counts no less that 16 churches in and around the bay! Whilst we were in Komi we were told that anyone can build a church in their home town providing that no other church with the name already exists there. They are usually built by wealthy people in gratitude for their good fortune.

We will not be staying here long but will be moving further south tomorrow as we want to ensure that we are in a safe place before the meltemi, forecast for the middle of next week, blows up.

30^th August 2010

Last night we took the dinghy into the island and were very pleasantly surprised. We found a bakery open 24 hours a day and as we wandered up the small streets we found little shops tucked away and tavernas. We even found one where people were speaking French and to top it all it had a book swop.

This morning we went back into town and took in all the books that we had read to replace them by new ones. We had a quick lunch in the taverna and then headed back to the boat as we wanted to get under way and head for Leros.

We hoisted the anchor and set out around 14h30. It was a short hop to our destination of Xerkambos on the South tip of Leros but it was a case of motor sailing/sailing as the wind sent gusts off the land. We reached the anchorage at 17h30 so not too long a day. Tomorrow we shall head for the town of Kos as we want to be in the harbour there for a couple of days.

 26^th August 2010

Again a change of plan. The weather forecast was not good for heading south so we decided to take an extra day in Komi and spent it on the beach. Whilst we were sunbathing we were witness to a forest fire in the neighbouring bay which we had nearly gone in to to escape the strong winds. It was the gum trees burning and a helicopter and two fire fighting planes spent the afternoon fighting the flames. They were collecting water from the sea and dumping it on the flames and the surrounding countryside. It lasted well into the evening. As we were leaving the beach to return to the yacht we met up again with Dimitri and his sister. They had expressed an interest in visiting the yacht during our evening together the night before. We took them out to the boat and showed them around. On the way back to the beach the dinghy outboard started to play op so back they came and waited whilst Svein repaired it and was able to take them back ashore.

  21st August 2010

Change of plan. After very bumpy night with the anchor dragging first this morning we moved the boat alongside the quay as the meltemi had picked up during the night and we were like a corkscrew on the water. Our plan to sail to Mitlini to stock up had to be revised so we took the bus instead. Up hills and down vales we drove through the island and after a little over an hour reached the capital. We were lucky in that the shop (AB) was next to the bus station so we did not have too far to carry our purchases. On our return to Plomari we cooked a farewell dinner for Ronny and Lisa who were leaving the next day.

22nd August 2010

The meltemi was still blowing so we stayed put but were bounced around much less. We took advantage of the water and did a wash load but otherwise took it easy and planned our route.

23^rd August 2010

After visiting the port police and paying our dues we got the transit log back and we left Plomari late morning heading South. We were unable to sail but did motor sail until we reached the island of Oinousses to the east of Khios. We anchored outside the harbour in the early afternoon and after our anchor dram took a swim in water that was a good deal colder that what we had been used to up to then but still crystal clear. We took a quick trip round the town but did not find much of interest. We have decided to stay another day here to relax after our busy week.

24^th Augut 2010

After a quiet morning we took the dinghy into town and decided to explore the back streets. We wandered round and found some houses for sale and other that had obviously been recently renovated. Apparently the island is the home of wealthy shipping magnates who are less known that than Onassis but a great deal wealthier. The renovation work on the quay and its surroundings certainly leaves the impression that money is being spent here.

25^th August 2010

We lifted the anchor and left the island of Oinousses. We were able to sail all day until we reached the outskirts of Komi (Khios) when the wind died and we had to finish the journey by engine: We anchored outside the beach and after a few hours took the dinghy into town to explore. On our way in we “rescued” a young couple who had managed to get a rope tangled round the propeller of their jetski. We towed them into the beach. After investigation it was impossible to repair in the water so Svein towed them over to the fishing harbour where the jetski was taken out of the water and Svein repaired it (not without having to return to the boat to collect the appropriate tools)!!! Tomorrow we continue our journey south and hopefully will be in the vicinity of Samos.

13^th August 2010

We have decided to stay another day at anchor. We started the day with a long swim and then got down to some household tasks (defrosting the fridge). There was a great deal of unusual activity at the taverna: tables were being brought out together with chairs and there were so many that we were convinced there was going to be a wedding party. We did not dare go ashore to investigate but decided to wait and see what transpired. It was another sultry day so we also decided to try and sleep on deck where we hoped it might be a bit cooler. As evening wore on people started arriving but nothing seemed to be happening until around 22h00. Then there was Greek music and singing But we could see no wedding party. Caryn was lulled to sleep by the music so Svein took the dinghy and went ashore to investigate. It transpired that there was a concert in progress with 6 professional musicians who also sang together with a group of dancers performing traditional dances. Svein filmed quite a bit of the concert and has put it out on Youtube. We had a rather restless night sleeping on deck despite the fact that we had the stars for company – probably not an experience we will try again.

14^th August 2010

We must now move on and reach the harbour of Plomari so that we are installed when our friends Lisa and Ronny from ‘Sweden arrive. We hoisted the anchor and made our way out of the bay. After a 3 hour journey we arrived at the harbour. A big surprise awaited us as we found that there was one other boat there but the visitors pontoon no longer existed. We moored up on the town quay and hoped our anchor had taken. We treated ourselves to a late lunch at the taverna next to us and then proceeded to wait for the temperature to drop before we ventured out to explore the town. We had to wait until quite late as the temperature is still in the upper 30s around 21h00. There are many quiet back streets, not many tourists and overall the town is very pleasant. It was a eventful night as the wind blew up and our anchor started to drag. Svein solved the problem temporarily by putting out another anchor but we will have to re anchor tomorrow morning.

15^th August 2010

Having discovered that there is no laundry in the town we had to set to and do some serious washing that we had been holding back on – the sheets and towels. We put them into soak and then carried on with washing the boat in and out in preparation for the visitors. Once the washing was hanging out and the wind had dropped it was time to re anchor. We duly pulled in both anchors but then got stuck on the flimsy anchor rope that a small motor boat had put out right across the harbour. Svein dived to release it from both the rudder and the keel and we were able to anchor again but this time using the two anchors one behind the other to give us more stability. As it was very hot work we did not have the courage to cook a meal so ate out again and went to bed with the knowledge that all was ready.

16^th August 2010

We waited most of the day quietly on the boat and Lisa and Ronny arrived at 16h00. We sat on the boat catching up on the news as we had not seen them since 2006. We then went ashore and had a quiet dinner in our local taverna.

17^th August 2010

Temperatures are still very high and there is not much air in the harbour. Instead of hanging around in town we took the dinghy and went and joined Lisa and Ronny at their hotel on the beach. We spent a very lazy day sunning ourselves and generally relaxing with plenty of swimming. We also enjoyed a Greek music evening in the local taverna.

20^th August 2010

Visiting the beach has been the procedure for the last couple of days with plenty of swimming to cool down and tomorrow we will prepare the boat for our departure on Saturday. We did however spend the evening with Ronny and Lisa and ate dinner at their hotel where there was a Greek orchestra. Svein managed to distinguish himself again. We have not decided where we are making for yet but will probably be going South.

8^th August 2010

After a lazy morning shopping, filling the water tank and catching up with the family on Skype we hoisted the anchor at 13h45 and starting making our way towards the island of Alonnisos about 17NM further on. As soon as we left the harbour we were able to hoist the sails and only had to start the engine when we came to the tip of the Skopelos. The scenery was spectacular with steep cliffs covered in olive trees dropping to the blue water. We crossed over to Alonnisos and by 17h45 we were anchored in Ormus Roumousi. Again a small bay with 2 other boats anchored here and clear water. A small settlement on land but for any shopping one has to go to the neighbouring town of Patitri. It is our plan to stay here until Wednesday so we shall explore on land tomorrow.

9^th August 2010

We are still on the boat at 10h00 as we are experiencing our first thunderstorm and rain. The rain is pelting down so it is a good test to see if the work done on the deck has been successful. It would appear so. It has given me time to update the accounts and do some chores in the boat as it is cool enough to stay indoors. Svein has also worked on the fuel tank. He has measured it so that we now have its exact capacity – a pleasant surprise to find that it contains 30 litres more than we thought and we have been able to calculate our average fuel consumption so far this trip. Jolly glad that we are not on the water today.

As soon as the rain had stopped we emptied the dinghy (approx 50 litres had collected in it) and then put the washing to soak in the collected rainwater.
We then proceeded to walk over the hill to Patitri. There we browsed and bought the postcards for the family (who receive one from every port of call) and then found a wifi cafe. Svein collected the latest weather forecast and we braced ourselves for the walk back. We returned to the boat at 15h30 and proceeded to rinse and hang out the washing. We then had a well deserved swim. In the late afternoon Svein took the dinghy into shore to deliver the rubbish and take some photos as we had forgotten the camera earlier in the day. We shall have a dinner on board tonight and tomorrow we shall make our way to Skyros. This will be our last island before we make the crossing over to Lesbos.

10^th August 2010

As we had made the boat ready the night before we were able to leave early for our crossing to Skyros. We hoisted the main and mizzen before lifting the anchor and headed out of the bay. The wind was right but we motored sailed for 90 minutes in order to charge the batteries as the clouds the previous day had cheated us of our full charge. Once the engine was stopped we sailed on a comfortable tack throughout the day with the wind speed varying between 10 and 15 knots until we reached the island of Skyros. Here we encountered such strong gusts that we were obliged to lower the main and bring in the genoa. We carried on under engine and once we had gone through the narrow pass discovered the town of Limaria. With the gusts blowing there was no way we were going to try to go to quay so we headed for the anchorage just to the North of the town. When we arrived there was one other boat but by the end of the evening we had 7 sail boats and 4 hugh “gin palaces” in the bay. At least it meant good business for the local taverna on the beach.

11^th August 2010

We are staying here for another day to be sure of the best weather forecast for the crossing to Lesbos so bright and not too early we took the dinghy into town and caught the local bus up to the Chora. This delightful town is built on the top of a hill (originally from where the territory was defended) so we climbed up through the narrow streets windowshopping. We also managed to collect some money from the ATM and spent some on the local speciality – embroidery – for which the island is renowned. We then caught a bus back to Limaria and went in search of internet. The cafe was just beside the ferry quay we had an enlightening few hours whilst the ferry discharged and then reloaded the passengers and cars. It was a never ending ballet of comings and goings but eventually everyone got on board and the ferry was able to leave. We are not sure of its destination but it seems to do at least two rotations a day.

The latest weather forecast confirms that tomorrow is the best time to cross to Lesbos so we shall be leaving early to make the 16 hour crossing and be there is time to greet our Swedish friends.

12^th August 2010

We made it. We have reached Lesbos. After a very early start (03h00) when we left the anchorage on Skyros we motorsailed/sailed all day. The tack was tight and the wind played games but all n all it was a good crossing. We saw absolutely no other sailboats but danced among the cargoes on two different occasions. We reached our anchorage in the bay of Apothekes at 18h55 after a 16-hour crossing and an 84 NM journey. There were no other boats in the anchorage. It is a quiet fishing hamlet surrounded by land with a very narrow entrance into the bay. The breeze, bringing the heat of the land, can really be felt but the sea is not far away to cool off in. We treated ourselves to a fish dinner in the local taverna and although our pockets are feeling the pinch it was well worth it after such a good day. We are undecided as to whether we shall stay another night here or go into the harbour but the thought of one week in a harbour is a little daunting at the moment.

6^th August 2010

This morning we had a change of plan. With an updated weather forecast we decided to visit the Bay of Volos before making our crossing. We left the anchorage in the Bay of Vathikelon and continued East (under engine). We were heading for the island of Palaio Trikeri in the Bay of Volos. As we approached the wind blew up and we suddenly started having gusts of 25 knots. Not the best thing to go into a harbour and of course it was blowing from the wrong direction. We prepared the boat and then the trouble started. After we had lowered the dinghy and Svein was backing a wave filled the dinghy with water. We got rid of this and then started to back, dropping the anchor as we went. Unfortunately the anchor did not take and we start drifting onto the other boats and ended up with our starboard side along the fishing boats anchored in the harbour!! A kind French man got in his dinghy and tried to pull us off but by this time a mooring rope had managed to snag our keel so we were stuck fast. The wind was still blowing and now we had all the local fishermen on their boats holding up off. Svein dived and released the mooring rope and the dinghy pulled us off. We had to exit the harbour and were unable to thank them or buy them a round of drinks.

We were glad to get out of there and crossed the bay to find a safer anchorage. Again we ran into problems although our anchor had taken we were receiving gusts of 25 knots into the bay which made it extremely uncomfortable. We decided to head out and move to the entrace of the Bay of Volos where there was a safe anchorage.

The only good thing about the whole day was that we were able to sail to our new anchorage. We moored late afternoon and treated ourselves to a good dinner on shore that we felt we had deserved after the horrors of the day.

We found an internet cafe and were able to get a weather forecast update which should enable us to plan for next few days. After dinner we also met some Austrians who were sailing the same model of Wharram catamaran that Svein had built in the 80s. We had a long chat with them and will perhaps meet up with them in the islands. We went to bed in preparation for an early start for our trip to Skopelos.

7^th August 2010

Bright and early (06h30) we hoisted the anchor and left the Bay of Pigadhi. By 07h00 we had the sails up and then played cat and mouse with the wind until we passed the island of Skiathos.From then on we were able to sail, although on a tight tack, and only started the engine when it was time to enter the harbour of Loutraki on the island of Skopelos. As there was no room on the small quay we anchored off the breakwater. Fortunately we got in early as by late afternoon the flotillas were pouring in as well as the private boats all looking for a space.

Svein has investigated the damage to the new paintwork (from the previous day’s adventure).

We came to Skopelos as we are both Abba fans and this is the setting for the Mamma Mia film. We have, however, yet to find the village where it was based. It certainly was not Loutraki. Whether we have time to explore all the island is another matter but we have at least reached the North Sporades and it is only a few more islands before we get to Lesbos.