This morning we left Nidri once again to make our way over to Meganisi where we were invited out to dinner to celebrate Neils’ birthday We anchored in Port Atheni at lunch time and then spent the afternoon making a birthday cake. Cakes are not something we make very often on board so we were taking a chance but it turned out to be edible and looked very good with its chocolate icing and silver decoration. We enjoyed a typical Greek meal in a local tavern overlooking the bay.
Unfortunately by the time we got back to the respective boats the flotilla members were having a disco night at one of the other restaurants (opposite the boat) so it was a little noisy. We only had to listen to the music until 1am so we were able to get a good night sleep in the end.
We decided not to spend a second night in this bay so made our way round to Abelike Bay where it was not too crowded and there was peace and quiet. We also took advantage of getting some washing done.
On the way round to the bay the calibration tests were carried out on “Laerke” and we then discovered that there was an additional problem so that they would have to return to Nidri to get it sorted out.

On Monday morning we left Vonitsa harbour to make our way to Nidri. Thistime we saw some dolphins but they were not very playful. Turtles were more rare although we did see some whilst in Vonitsa harbor but we were never quick enough to film them as they stayed on the surface for very long – their heads appeared only twice to take breath and then they were gone.
Once through the entrance to Preveza we were able to sail for half and hour and managed to make our way into the canal entrance in time for the opening of the bridge. Once in the queue we discovered that the bridge would not open for another hour so we dropped our anchor and waited patiently unlike some of the other nationalities also waiting to go through. Eventually we got through and we were in luck for once the wind was in the right direction so we were able to hoist all the sails and sail through the Lefkada canal and nearly down to Nidri. It was only on the last stretch that we had to start the engine. It was a very pleasant sail and nice to give them an airing. We moored on the Nielsen quay in the later afternoon as we needed electricity for Svein to carry out the installation work on “Laerke”.
We have now been back in Nidri for three nights. Not long after our arrival we witnessed a motor boat burning in the bay. I truly hope that we will never need the services of the fire brigade here as they took a very long time in coming. The boat burned for at least three hours and in the end sunk. We were plagued by the toxic fumes but it seemed more of an attraction to the locals and in the end the ferry boat and one of the tourist boats were spraying the burning vessel with water. What was the cause of the fire is still unknown.
The auto pilot is now installed on “Laerke” and we have also been able to change the windlass battery which also gave up on us and repair the shower pump that had been leaking.
We shall leave Nidri tomorrow morning for Meganisi and our journey further south.
We have now been travelling for 3 months of which 2 have been spent in the Ionian Sea. We have seen a great deal of interesting places and met many travelers over the course of this time. We are looking forward to the next few months where we shall see a new area of Greece and hopefully have many new adventures.

After a second undisturbed night we started on our way back with the intention of stopping in Vonitsa – the large town at the entrance to the Gulf. We anchored outside the harbour late morning and took the dinghy into town to explore. Again this is not a tourist town but has a very nice harbour and a lovely beach that we were able to swim off after we had explored the town. Lots of different shops and restaurants that cater for the locals and again a town that livens up in the evening when people seem to come from far and wide for a evening out strolling along the sea promenade.
Once the strong wind dropped in the evening we decided to move into the harbour and found a nice spot beside a Wharram catamaran. This was of interest to Svein as in his youth he had built a small one and started a bigger one that never got finished.
Vonitsa is dominated by the Venetian castle (as many other towns and ports in the area) and its history is closely linked to the power struggle The castle was built in the 13th century and was under the control of the different rulers (Angevins, Orsini, Tocci, Dukes of Leece and Knights of Rhodes) before coming under the Ottomans and the Ventians. It finally came into the hands of Ali Pasha of Ioannina before it was incorporated into the Greek state in 1829.
We decided to stay here for the weekend and on Sunday afternoon we were joined by “Laerke” who had come from Preveza. They had ordered a new auto pilot system that was waiting for them in Nidri.

Bright and early we left the quay in Preveza and wended our way into the Gulf of Amvrakia. This is a reputed natural reserve and we are hoping to see the dolphins and turtles as well as the other wild life that is abounding in this area. The first thing that is of consequence is the numerous fish farms dotted along the coast. We ignore the first town and decide to go into the end of the Gulf and then work our way back to Preveza. After a long morning we arrive at the bay of Sparto and realise that we have not seen another sailboat and even better we are all alone in the bay – Bliss. The first day we spend on the boat just winding down and swimming. However the next we decide to face civilization and go into the beach where there is a tavern. Unfortunately the food was not very good but in the later afternoon we took the dinghy and after mooring it in one of the small bays we followed the winding road to see if it led us to a town. After a very steep climb we arrived in a small village that had at least 4 taverns. We found a small supermarket but not much else. A pity that such a hard climb was not more rewarding except for a big thirst and a long way down again when we were ready. After a well deserved drink in one of the taverns when the locals could stop playing cards we wandered back the way we had come and were able to enjoy the view over the olive groves and the bay in general.

This stretch was down under engine for the whole way as although some strong winds blew up in the course of the journey it was not coming from the right direction. As the temperatures are soaring we had a couple of cooling off stops on the way down and even managed to recover an anchor buoy that was floating past. We moored on the “Scandinavian quay” in Preveza marina in the late afternoon after a long day. In the cool of the evening we walked into town to explore. It is not a tourist town although some charter companies seem to use it as their base. As a result there is not the usual throng of tourists although the town certainly comes to life in the evening when the locals are out taking their evening strolls.
One of the main reasons for coming to Preveza is that we have to change all our services batteries that are just over one year old – so much for sealed batteries. After investigating we have been advised on good authority to buy from a garage and that is what we did when the shops opened on Monday morning. They respect the Sunday closing here because of the lack of tourists. The new batteries have been purchased and installed so we are up and running again and can lie at anchor once more. After a wander around the town, a small stock up and a book swap in one of the local chandlers we were ready to go

After an early start as there was quite a distance to travel we left the quay in Plateria and made our way South to Parga. For once the wind was in our favour and we managed to achieve a sailing time of 4 and half hours. This meant that we reached Parga quite late in the afternoon and the initial bay we were intending to anchor in was pretty full of charter boats and the dreaded water sport fiends. Instead we anchored under the Venetian citadel with a line ashore. Parga in July is not the ideal spot. Early in the morning it is very pleasant to wander through the streets but at night it is throbbing with people who are meandering in and out of the shops in the small streets or are wandering along the quay and the ferries are busy until late in the night taking people to and from the bay. We were happy to leave there and make our way down to Preveza.

Once more on our own and with nothing more to do in Corfu we left the harbour as soon as the German boat had left so that we could make our way South again. We decided to visit Plateria again and then to make our way down the mainland to Parga and Preveza before the end of the week when again very strong winds are expected and we would prefer to be in a safe place. As we entered the bay we were met by an armada of 17 charter boats leaving the harbour so we were sure that we would find space on the quay for the night.

As none of us had yet visited Corfu town we decided that on the return trip to the island we would moor in the old harbour and that the girls would then return to their hotel by taxi in the evening.
We left Lakka late morning and again motored up to the town (head wind). We contacted “Laerke” who had been in the harbour for a few days and found out that we could raft to them. We arrived again in the late afternoon and rafted up. Once everything had settled down we wandered into the old town to check out the shops and to sightsee a little. The old town is full of shops selling leather good, furs and traditional goods made in Corfu. We even met a lady promoting local liquor dressed in a typical wedding costume – she must have been very hot as we were wilting under the heat in the small narrow streets. After dinner the girls came back to the boat to collect their luggage and took a taxi back to Dassio to finish their holiday. In the meantime a German boat had rafted up to us for the night.

As the trip to Lakka was not very long we set off after a leisurely breakfast and crossed the channel to Lakka Bay. It was mainly under engine but we did manage to get in a short period of sailing. There was a significant increase in the number of boats moored in the bay but we found a good anchorage and again enjoyed the water and the surroundings.

The next day we collected the girls and brought them out to the boat and set off for the mainland. Our plan was to visit Plateria with them and then, after a night in the harbour, to go across to Lakka as neither of them knew the bay. All went according to plan and after frequent cooling off stops on the way over we were safely moored in Plateria harbour in the late afternoon. Everyone went to the nearby beach to cool off again. After a dinner in a local restaurant we explored the small town.

The next morning we parted company with “Laerke” and headed North to Corfu so that we could find a good anchorage and check out the area where our Norwegian friends would be staying. Miracle of miracles we actually managed to sail for two and a half hours out of the seven hour journey. It took us up the East coast of the island past Corfu town and we eventually anchored in Kammeno Bay opposite Gouvia Marina.
Here we spent a quiet night and the next morning we rounded the head to anchor in Krevatsoyla Bay opposite Dassio. After a refreshing swim we took the dinghy into town to find the hotel where Bente and Tove would be staying and to get something to ear. Dassio is not a first choice for a holiday as it is made up entirely of hotels and bars with a few shops scattered in between. After finding the hotel we eventually found a little Greek tavern where we were served a really good homemade meal and we were able to wait until the arrival of the bus from the airport. The girls arrived around midnight and after a long chat and an agreement for them to spend the next day on the boat we got to bed in the early hours of the morning.
The girls came and spent the day on the boat with frequent swimming excursions to cool down and we planned to leave with them the next day on a short cruise. However our plans changed when we discovered that very strong NW winds were forecast for the next day. We checked when we got back to the boat after dinner and for once the forecast proved to be correct. At 7am we were up and moving the boat to the other side of the bay to be in the lee of the land and facing the NW winds. They blew all day and well into the night but the anchor held and we felt very safe.

Having replenished the stocks we left Lefkada quay and went through the North Entrance to Lefkada canal so that we could make our way North towards Corfu. A day of motoring has there was very little wind. “Laerke” would follow us as they still had unfinished business in Lefkada. We had a pleasant journey and arrived in Mongonisi Bay on the island of Paxos in the late afternoon. After several futile attempts to anchor in the bay (weed) we left the bay to anchor at its entrance in good holding with a line ashore. “Laerke” joined us and rafted for the evening.
The next morning we continued up the East coast of the island to anchor in the bay of Lakka – A place that must really be seen to be believed. A bay with crystal clear turquoise water that is surrounded by trees. Fortunately we had arrived early so were able to get a good anchorage as it is very popular.
After a very refreshing swim (for some reason although the bay is not very deep the water is quite cold in comparison to other places we have been) we took the dinghy in to explore the little village tucked away into the corner of the bay. Small streets that house little shops and restaurants and they were a joy to wonder round as the buildings are old and the greenery is well established.

The family has left and before setting out on the next stage of the trip we decided to visit the island of Meganisi. Not too far from Lefkada but a world of difference. We left on a Sunday morning just at the harbour authorities in Nidri were turfing out the boats to make way for the big cabin cruisers so our decision to leave was judicious. We motored past Scorpios and headed for Meganisi to explore the inlets on the North East coast accompanied by “Laerke”. We reached our desitination quickly and started to look for a suitable anchorage. We first tried a bay at the head of Abelike bay but did not feel happy with it although there were several boats there that looked as though they had been there for a number of years!
Niels and Svein decided to explore the bay in more detail and left in the dinghy. They returned very quickly having found a much deeper bay further in with few boats so we weighed anchor and headed off to find our ideal spot. After a couple of attempts (the bottom being shell and weed) we were anchored with a line ashore (kindly assisted by the Dutch charter fleet team) and were able to enjoy a swim in the crystal clear water. The bay also boasted two taverns that would be interesting to explore later on. True to tradition Svein wandered off to explore and returned to inform us that a flotilla would be in the bay that night! They duly arrived but were much disciplined and did not disturb the other boats in the bay. It was wonderful to be able to enjoy peace and quiet and to relax after the busy weeks past.
Studying the map of the island we discovered that we were not very far from Vathi the main town on the island so early one morning we took the dinghy ashore and investigated. After a short climb up the hill, a brief walk along the road and then down some convenient steps we arrived in the town 15 minutes later. A sleepy place complete with the usual town quay, taverns and two shops as well as a bakery. The biggest surprise was finding the unfinished harbour that was at the entrance to the bay. Apparently it had been started over two years ago but was still not finished although it as possible to moor the electricity and water facilities were not working. In true Greek style no one knows when it will be up and running. Anyway it is a place where charter boats can practice their stern to berthing procedures as long as they do not pick up any of the old anchors left in the bay!!
There were many nationalities using the bay for different lengths of time and the taverns certainly did good business as well as providing laundry facilities, water and a book swapping service (a god send).
After nearly a week here we felt read to move on again and start our way up to Corfu to meet Bente and Tove from Sandefjord. We left late morning and after a short 2 hour trip we moored again on Lefkada town quay.

We have now been one month in Greece and despite the fact that we have not been sailing around a great deal due to family commitments we are enjoying the scenery and way of life.
Svein’s children and their families arrived in Nidri for their holiday. On their arrival Svein got a very big surprise as his parents also turned up. He had no inkling of their arrival as the family had kept it a secret from him. Our friends on “Swedish Girl” Kay and Doug also arrived and are moored opposite us. The next arrivals were the three brothers and their families whilst the sailors gradually arrived in time for the party: Niels and Ellen on “Lærke” having come from Spain, Nigel and Rochelle on “Crackerjack”, Robert and Chantal (ex ”Solent Wader”) arrived from Belgium and finally part of “Anelo” Anne Laure and Antoine as Laurent had left to return to his ship. They came by camping car with her parents. The count was complete.
The weather had become a little unstable and we juggled with thunderstorms, showers and sun for part of the time whilst we caught up with the news from everyone. One outcome of the unstable weather was a drop in the temperature so early one morning Svein and I decided to visit the famous waterfall inland. We started out on foot and followed the signs going through winding lanes, along main roads and finally off into the hills. Several 3km signs later we finally approached the site having gone through olive groves, lemon and orange orchards all covered in the smell of wild herbs and now following 400m signs. After several of these we started climbing the gorge and eventually arrived at a clear water pool. Exhausted and not very reassured by the safety rails I waited by the pool and Svein continued to the actual waterfall which he captured on video. We began our climb down and stopped for needy refreshment at the tavern at the foot of the climb before undertaking the return journey. This seemed to go much quicker and we even managed to find a shortcut. We arrived back in Nidri town with very sore feet and blisters from our walking shoes as neither of us had worn anything but sandals for 2 months. After a footbath in the sea and a rewarding Greek salad we walked home but after having purchased a pair of flipflops. We only hope that when you are all looking at the photos you will realise the “hardship” that was involved.

As some of our guests arrived in Nidri they were kind enough to take us on a few trips. “Anelo” took us to Vasiliki, a large bay on the South coast of the island that also has a harbour and plenty of taverns.
“Solent Wader” took us to Ammouso Bay another day. This little bay lies between Sivota and Vasiliki. It seems to be only known to the locals and has a tavern and water that is crystal clear and the true Mediterranean blue. It has a pebble beach but once past this discomfort it was glorious to swim and enjoy the cooling Southerly breeze that blew into the bay.
Currently days are being taken up with swimming in the pool of one of the local hotels or off the beach or off the boat (depending where we are moored), chatting with family and friends in person or on Skype and daily chores – a hard life away from the hustle of past working days.
The day of the party arrived and to all accounts it was a success. 40 people from all nationalities gathered in a local restaurant for Greek wine and food and the opportunity of getting to know one another and, for the sailors, to exchange tips and experiences. The last ones to bed got there at 07h00 the next day!!!!!
Whilst “Swedish Girl” sailed off to continue their holiday the others went on a sailing cruise on MS Christina (a Turkish caique). This was a delightful experience and for a whole day we were able to sit back and relax whilst someone else did the sailing. We visited a famous cave on Meganisi where the Greeks had hidden a German U boat during World War II, the islands of Kastos, Kalamos, Skorpios, Madouri . The visits were interspersed with swimming stops in clear waters and visits to local villages with a delicious Greek lunch also included. We returned to Nidri at the end of the day with our heads full of places and quiet bays to visit by ourselves when we leave here.
The family is starting to travel home and the first ones left at the end of their week’s holiday, the second group will leave shortly to be followed by the final group early next week. A visit from 25 members of the same family over a period of 3 weeks is quite something and although we have enjoyed the visit immensely we will be happy to return to our quiet ways.
We will be heading up towards Corfu for the next stage of our trip as we have 2 Norwegian friends coming for a week’s holiday who we have not seen for a few years.

Svein went to check if it was possible to come into the charter quay as we needed to do some work on the boat and required electricity. As long as we were gone by Friday it was no problem so we moved over to the quay and installed ourselves. For 10 euros a day we have electricity (so hot water) and water and are just a stone’s throw from the town. We have been able to do a heavy load of washing and get the boat spruce for the arrivals. Svein has welded the protections that will prevent the chain from jumping from the roller and all we have to do now is update the photo album, get out the blog, answer emails and wait for the arrival of the first visitors (Svein’s two daughters, their husbands and their 7 children). The next two weeks look to be pretty hectic as we will welcome not only Svein’s three brothers and their families in addition to the friends that are joining us for the party at the end of the month.
We are constantly amazed by the short distances one has to travel around these islands. We have been used to all day sailing or longer to get from A to B but here in the Ionian is only takes a couple of hours to change scenery or island. However one does have to contend with the many charter boats that are hired in the area and that is not always easy as many of those on board do not seem to know what they are doing or just do not care as it is not their boat. It is easy to understand why the long term sailors who winter in this area travel home for the months of July and August and then come back again in September when the season dies down.

A very lively and noisy town that is popular with tourists. It is full of taverns that are occupied by both foreigners and the locals and the main shopping street is bustling until very late at night. Everything is to be found in and around with the different shops and restaurants plying for trade.
Having heard that there was a Lidl in Lefkada we decided to take the bicycles and explore. People here have a very different idea about distances. We were told that it was on the outskirts of town and was a 30 minute walk. After more than 30 minutes on the bicycles we found it and managed to do a fair stock up taking into account that we had to get it back to the boat on the bicycles!!! Not a bad morning’s work and exercise into the bargain.
Today we have nice neighbours: to starboard a Greek lady living in London and on holiday on her Princess 45 and to port an English couple who leave their boat in Preveza and come out twice a year to sail. We got many tips from them about the best places to sail. We were even given a homemade Greek meal which was truly delicious.
We also got the spare parts for the outboard engine (at long last as we had been looking for them since Porquerolles) and Svein fitted them. We also cycled to the local beach for a cooling swim and saw the Lefkada Bridge in action. There is consistent traffic going both ways and all nationalities passing through but the decrease in the long term sailors is noticeable as they are all going home until September. We will only have to contend with the charter boats soon.
Time is flying by and it is time to get back to Nidri to greet the first arrivals. We did the return journey in just over one hour and anchored again in Tranquil Bay.

A very busy holiday dedicated to catering for holidaymakers (both on land and off shore). A large number of taverns line the main street and the harbour is full of charter boats that have their base here as well as companies catering for other water sports. It has however a pleasant feel to it and being anchored in the bay we are away from the hustle and bustle particularly at night and we also benefit from a sea breeze (not always the case when walking the streets). The temperature is high and everyone is talking about a heat wave.
We have filled up with the water from Nidri as we were informed that it is the cleanest in Greece. Onassis ensured that when he lived on Skorpios (opposite Nidri) that he would be supplied with the water from the nearby wells and consequently Nidri also benefitted from the installation.
We checked out and found a restaurant that can take us all for the party and also found the hotel where all the Norwegians shall be.
With everything under control we decided to make our way up to Lefkada, a little further up the coast, to try and find some large supermarkets and do a fill up. We left late morning and by lunch time we were anchored in the bay opposite the town quay having gone through the Lefkada canal (somewhat similar to the entrance to PN). We went ashore and had a light lunch but as the wind were strengthening and we were not happy with the anchorage we explored the town quay with the dinghy and found a spot. We quickly weighed the anchor and moved to the spot before the evening arrivals filled it.

This is a delightful little fishing village that is extremely protected as the bay has to be entered by a dogleg. The people are very helpful and every morning the different vans come to sell you their produce (bread, fruit, and vegetables).There are little tavernas all around the harbour and three designated swimming areas. A few traditional houses are there and, of course, some new ones being built in the hills. The one thing that is missing is a bank or ‘hole in the wall’ but as everyone accepts credit cards even that is not a hardship after a time. This is definitely somewhere we will go back to and obviously the other sailors in the harbour were of the same opinion as they seem to go back there year after year.
After a couple of days here we needed to move on and decided to anchor in the next bay before making our way up the East coast of the island.
We arrived in the bay late morning and found it to be full of hotels and flats to rent and as it was a Greek public holiday the beach was crowded and full of families. However we anchored off the beach in 12m of water and immediately took a swim to cool off. After a late lunch we decided that we did want to spend the night there so we started making our way to Nidri. After a short two hours we were entering Nidri harbour and were anchoring in Tranquil Bay opposite the town.

As the weather forecast for the next day promised strong NW winds we decided to leave our little haven and make for the NE corner of the island. This proved to be a mistake. The strong winds never appeared but when we entered the port of Fiskardho we discovered a very small harbour full of charter boats and not much room to manoeuvre. As part of the quays was blocked off so everybody was turning in circles trying to find somewhere to go. No harbour authorities but eventually someone shouted to us that the ferry was about to leave and that we could moor in his place. Then the fun started. C’est la Vie is heavy to manoeuvre particularly in a NE which was blowing us away from the quay. Our Bruce anchor would not take and although we got lines ashore we were constantly being blowing against the quay and to top it all there were underwater rocks jutting out quite far so we were worried for the rudder. Svein does not give up and he rowed out to place a second anchor. This took but as it was on a rope with just a small amount of chain we continued to hit the quay. Eventually after several hours and attempts to secure the boat we decided to leave the harbour and find a quiet anchorage.
We continued down the East coast of the island and after a short time found an empty bay and a deserted quay. Here there was no problem with the wind and we tied up alongside using chains to protect the ropes against chafing. A quiet bay with clear blue water and peace and quiet – until the next morning when the tourist boats started visiting the anchorage and explaining that at the bottom of the bay against the quay was a 30m wooden boat that had sunk!
We stayed here for another day and then left to make the crossing to Lefkas Island. After a couple of hours (motoring) as there was no wind we came to the harbour of Sivota. Here we found a mooring against the quay and this time all went well.

It was time to move and start our approach to Nidri. We left Argostoli late morning with the intention of sailing up the West coast of Cephalonia to anchor off a small place called Asso. Luck was with us and we had the right wind so we sailed up the coast and for the first time our sailing hours exceeded our engine hours for the day. However around 17h00 the wind dropped and as we were near a bay called Atheras we decided to anchor there for the night. Bliss after the busy harbour and the sightseers. No other boat, a few fishermen going about their business and the goats on the hills. We were able to take a leisurely swim in clear blue water.