Here we start the next stage of our adventure This is a busy tourist town (mainly English) with lots of bars and shops and pedestrians walking along the harbour front, so it is a little like being in a goldfish bowl as the boat is examined and commented on and even used as a background for the “folks back home” despite the fact that we are on board!!! The shops are well equipped and everything that is needed can be found to hand.

The Authorities are also very helpful. We went to register and a uniformed coast guard told us that as it was Friday and the tax office (where one of the payments has to be made) was closed until Monday he had not seen us and we should wait until we arrived in the next island to register. We wholly agreed and took ourselves off to explore the town and sort out the eternal problem of a phone card from yet another country and to get hold of internet to catch up on emails. We also treated ourselves to a Greek lunch for the costly sum of 18.00 euros for 2 including drinks!!!!!!!

We have now officially registered the boat in Greek waters and it took us just 3 hours and visiting 3 different offices.

Yesterday afternoon we experienced an unexpected Easterly wind that gave us gusts of 35knots in the harbour so there was fun and games with anchor chains and extra springs to ensure that everybody was safely moored and not in any danger.

We shall stay here until we get our plans clear as we still have two weeks before we need to be in Nidri for the celebration.

After calculating the time to catch the stream going from North to South in the Messina Strait we left Tropea at 06h00 and made our way South. We entered the Strait right on time and were making over 8 knots (engine 6, mizzen 1 and stream over 2). In the first part of the Strait there was very little merchant traffic but we were highly entertained by the fishermen on their strange boats (see photos) who were chasing swordfish and trying to harpoon them. Definitely not a job for Caryn!
As soon as we reached Reggi de Calabri the wind came at last and we quickly changed the genoa so that we could take full advantage of it and managed to sail for 3 hours. We rounded the toe of Italy (unfortunately with the engine running as the wind did not last long) and began the crossing over to Greece. We had calculated that it would take us 48 hours from Tropea
During the first night we managed to get in just over 4 hours sailing but most of the crossing we had to motorsail. The sea was very choppy and there was a good deal of swell which did not make for the most comfortable of journeys. However in the afternoon of the second day we were able to hoist the sails again and we managed to sail for nearly 6 hours.
Caryn got her monthly haircut which was successful despite the swell!
Another night at sea with the risk of a thunderstorm this time (fortunately it went much further North) and by the next morning we still had a few hours left before we would see the Greek coast.
It came into view eventually and we made our way to Argostoli harbour in order to register our entry to Greece. We moored on the town quay at 11h30 local time and took a well earned rest after a long and tiring crossing.
Wind is such a fickle thing. We have several weather forecast sites and they all agreed that the wind for these dates would be SW 3 to 5 that should have given us the perfect crossing under sail. We met everything but.
In the 942miles we have come in 173 hours we have motored/motorsailed for 145 hours and managed to sail for 28 hours!!!!!!. However our average speed has been just under 6knots.

We moored at the fuel quay for the night as there was no sign of life in the harbour and we did not want to venture in to find a berth.
A guard came and inspected the vessel from outside whilst talking on his mobile but we were left in peace for the night. The next morning whilst waiting for the fuel quay to open we explored the harbour.
It is well laid out and even has an open air theatre but it did not seem to be very active and was already showing signs of wear and tear.
People were obviously getting it up and running for the season so everything was not open. It seems a good harbour and we know of people who have used it and were very happy.
After filling up the diesel tank (to be sure that we had enough for the next stage) we went out and anchored off the beach. Here we swam and relaxed and Svein even made a cooling air system using PC fans. It is now installed in the saloon and is very efficient and becoming very necessary.
We got an early night in preparation of the next stage of the journey.

After two nights here and a full quota of diesel and water on board we set off for the last stop before we attack the Messina Strait and the crossing to Greece.
No matter how careful we are with the weather forecasts we always seem to get head winds or no wind at all. This was the case today and we engine all the way to Tropea arriving at 22h30

The washing is out on the rails drying and we have been up to the harbour office to pay our dues. There are so few visitors in this little harbour that we were given a special price and they have given us the water and electricity for free! The shops are also open on a Sunday so we have been able to buy the few missing items. Here we will also fill fuel before heading off to visit the shores and make our way down the coast.

A sleepy and pleasant town that has obviously tried to attract the sailing world from the evidence of a hugh travelling crane and a well installed harbour. However the attempt has not succeeded and the crane is not used and the hard standing has become a car park! It is a pity as it is a lovely corner of Italy away from the tourists and the people are very helpful.

By 06h30 we were under way and heading further South. Our first destination was Capri but at 08h30 it was still shrouded in mist and there was not much to be seen so we carried on. At long last we had some breeze so we were able to hoist the sails and sailed for 2 hours on a flat calm sea but then again it dropped and we were forced to continue under engine. Svein put the time to use by painting the hatches with the second coat and also repairing some of the holes in the netting. We motored for the rest of the day and finally decided to stop in Camerota for the night (our second harbour since we have left) so that we could fill water. We docked in Camerota at 20h30. The first thing we did was have a very long hot shower – bliss. The washing was also put in to soak and we dined on Italian cheese and homemade bread whilst using Skype to catch-up with the family.

One of the Flegree islands it rivals Capri with its lush vegetation. Although visited by many tourists it is not as well known as Capri so had kept its charm. Made up of craters and ancient lava flows it is also known for its hot water springs and thermal baths. Some famous Europeans travelers passed through not least Ibsen wrote “Peer Gynt “ here. After having explored the town a little on the previous evening we found food shops and plenty of shoe shops but no repair shops or chandlers so it was Svein’s intention to set out the next morning, in the dinghy, to go to the harbor and solve our problem. However on waking up he found that our dinghy had gone. Fortunately he spotted it against the causeway to the castle so we woke Anelo who kindly went and fetched it for us. If they had not been there a very early morning swim had been the only alternative. Needless to say the dinghy is now attached to the davits and lifted every evening as we are taking no more chances!
Once everything was back to normal Svein went off to the harbour and fortunately found the Volvo dealer. He used his network and found an alternator in Rome (the only one in Italy) and arranged for it to be sent to Naples and then brought over to Ischia by ferry the next day. At least that was the problem solved and we just had to wait for it to arrive. It really changes not having to look at one’s watch all the time and just taking things as they come.
Anelo left this morning to continue their route. Late afternoon we took the dinghy and crossed to the harbour to fetch the alternator. Eventually the electrician arrived with the alternator and it was just a question of mounting the cooling fan and we could be on our way. On the way back Svein dropped me off in the town to do some food shopping and we met up later and got back to the boat around 20h00 – too late to install the alternator so we decided to spend another day in Ischia and fix the alternator in the morning. We used the evening to catch up on emails.
We decided to use the waiting time to spruce up the boat. Svein had already prepared and painted the hatches on the crossing from Ponza to Ischia but they still needed a second coat and Caryn was very anxious to make the lazy bag /jack for the mizzen. We had come across (in a bin) some ideal material in Macinaggio that was sufficient for the mizzen and to replace the main sail lazy bag that is looking very sorry for itself.
Early the next morning Svein had installed the alternator and it was time to attack the lazy bag. A long process and the sewing machine also decided to play up but by late afternoon we had the new lazy bag installed on the mizzen and we were ready to go.

We left Ponza in the early morning with the repaired alternator installed and set out on the next stage of the journey but after one hour Svein realized that the repair had melted and we were not charging from the engine – an expensive repair that has forced us to change our plans and head for Ischia to try and find a replacement. We arrived in Ischia in the late afternoon and anchored under the Aragonese castle in the Castello d’Ischia – A truly idyllic anchorage with clear blue water and beautiful scenery. It was not long before we were in the water cooling off as the temperatures have started to get serious and we have seen 40C on the cockpit thermometer. Anelo arrived just after us and anchored in the same bay.

A picturesque holiday town that is a great favourite with the Italians and fortunately not too crowded as we are still early in the season. We wandered around and climbed up and down stairs and watched the world go by in a sultry Italian day with the temperature reaching in the 40°. It has a very chequered history and was used, in the Roman days, as an exile for undesirables like the Caligula brothers and Agrippina. There is also a very extensive grotto system that was linked to the Summer residence of Augusto by overhanging arches complete with swimming pools and fish ponds.
In the late afternoon we were accosted by a local harbour employee who “persuaded” us to go to quay as there were strong easterly winds expected. We negociated a price of 50.00 euros which is expensive but a great deal less that is being quoted by the other pontoons. We had earlier questioned one of the pontoon boys (where we had left our dinghy to explore the town) who informed us that we could come to the quay for 80.00 euros instead of 130.00 (and this is the off season). The cheapest price quoted was 10.00 euros a linear metre. This was the first night to be spent at quay since we started and we hope that there will not be too many more at these rates.
We used the day that we spent at the quay to get to know our way around town and in the evening we decided to anchor again in order to avoid the noise of the town and the tugging of the quay. Although the wind was still blowing from the East we anchored and then to give us practice and to ensure that all was well we did an anchor watch through the night. Our method of anchoring worked fine and the boat was safe. We used the next day for Svein to install the remote control for the windlass and to fill up with fuel. Here we had a great fright. Although the wind was turning there was still a swell and it was strong enough for one of our mooring ropes to break during the fuelling. Fortunately no harm was done and we were able to complete the procedure and return to the anchorage. In the afternoon we had a call from “Anelo”, who had reached Ponza the previous day but had anchored on the other side of the island, to say that the wind was changing to West and they were coming round. They arrived in the late afternoon and we celebrated with a bottle of champagne and dinner on board. They had had a very tough time getting this far.
On Sunday Svein checked over the engine and we discovered that the alternator was not charging! He went round all the mechanic workshops but not many people were working. It is something that will have to be dealt with on Monday as all his alternatives to bypass the system did not work. Hopefully we will not have to buy a new alternator. We spent a lazy day on the boat taking up the sun and feeling frustrated as the wind has now turned and it is perfect for the next stage of the journey. Hopefully we will be able to solve the problem on Monday and leave on Tuesday.
Svein has been to the workshop and it would appear that the wheel on the alternator was loose. Something he had missed but the mechanic is repairing it and we collected it late this evening and installed it. We have used the day to our advantage to get some heavy washing done and to stock up on perishables before we move on.
We have put out pictures from the first stage of the journey as well this time. We will leave here on Tuesday and make for Capri and the Bay of Naples before heading down to the toe of Italy and Sicily. We have not yet decided if we will go round Sicily or through the Messina Strait. Time and weather conditions will decide.

We lifted anchor early in order to catch the wind that, for once, was in the right direction. We managed to get around the Argentario peninsula and sail for about 2 hours before the wind turned to South again. We followed the coast, where it was a little less strong and engine all day and through the night until we reached our next destination of Ponza in the Pontine islands just North of Naples at 10h00 on 13/05/09. We anchored in the bay and after we had caught up on our sleep wandered into the town to explore.

We spent an extra day in Elba finishing off the chores and kitting out the boat with new ropes and on Tuesday 12/05/09 we set out with Southerlies again. We sailed on a tight tack to the Italian coast and then turned south with the wind on the nose and under engine once again. It was a long uneventful day and we anchored In a little bay on the Italian coast called Cala di Forno just before the Argentario peninsula and Giglio island.

The market is still in town today so we again wandered through it and finally found a Modano ham to have on board. We also found the local supermarket and various other shops that we will need to use before we leave on Monday for the Italian coast as again the winds are not in our favour so we have decided to sail down the coast towards Sicily and see where the wind takes us.

We have decided to continue on our way and so we lifted anchor at 08h00 and started on the course for Elba. It was a very bumpy ride with the wind again on the nose but we made the uneventful journey in 8 hours and were anchored in the bay of Portferrario at 16h00. A lovely place to visit and explore and once ashore we discovered that we had arrived in the middle of a travelling European market with goods and food from all over Europe including Finland, France, Austria, Germany and of course the different regions of Italy. A lovely place stepped in history in which to meander amongst the stalls and see the old houses alongside the harbour. As it was approaching dinner time we climbed the steps to the higher part of the town away from the crowds and had a quiet meal overlooking the bay. A fitful ending to a long day.

The weather forecast for the next few days is not so good with strong SE winds blowing into our anchorage so we have moved further up the coast to a better protected bay at Barcaggio. Here we have spent a lazy day on the beach and in the evening ate on board “Anelo” where we were treated to a spider crab caught by the skipper.

After a good night’s rest Svein has set up my computer at the desk in the aft cabin so it is now installed and now no excuses not to write about our adventure. We are still having difficulty in realizing that this will be our way of life for the next few years. We received word that Svein’s private pension from Denmark has started to be paid and although it will not make us rich it has brought home that brought our working lives are over and we must move on to things new despite that Caryn has been receiving her private pension from the UK for some years now.
We have just been called over for homemade fish soup on “Anelo” so the epic will continue at a later date.

On Tuesday the forecast was perfect to make the crossing so at 11h30 we lifted anchor and headed out past Ile du Cros and Ile du Levant before turning East and a straight line to Corsica (Cap Corse). As there was no wind we motored the way and the Perkins did us proud. All Svein’s hard work to strip and rebuild the engine paid off and she went like a dream. The crossing was pretty uneventful with some heavy swell at the beginning (the aftermath of the previous day’s winds) but as the day went on the sea became calmer and by night we were merrily on our way with an average on 6 knots. We had to take watches so Svein took the first watch and at 23h00 Caryn took over. There was a good moon so plenty of visibility and always the radar and AIS to check for other ships in the area. At 02h00 Svein took over the watch just in time to see the ballet of the ferries and cruise ships around us (all on their way to Corsica as well but not at the same speed!). By dawn we could see Corsica but still were quite a way off. We gradually reached the first waypoint since Ile du Levant by which time we had been at sea for just under 24 hours. We had managed to hoist the mizzen and genoa around 07h00 which gave us a little more speed and improved the stability of the boat to stop us rolling too much. We eventually came in sight of our destination Macinaggio on the east side of the tip of Cap Corse. There we joined Anne Laure, Laurent and Antoine on “Anelo & moi”. We anchored at 12h15 so had been at sea for just over 24 hours se we had made very good time.
They joined us for a drink and we then went over to their boat for lunch. The afternoon called for a snooze, so that we could get back on track, and in the evening we went into the town in the dinghy to have a meal. Again the forecast is not too good for a few days so we will continue to wind down and plan the next stage of the journey.

At last underway. We left the harbour at 11h30 under brilliant sunshine and thus ended 4 years living in France. Friends waved us off and others telephoned to wish us good sailing. Originally we had thought to cover a little distance and anchor not far from the harbor to get our sea legs back again but the weather and wind were so right that we scrapped that idea and headed for our first port of call the lovely island of Porquerolles off the mainland opposite Hyères. We hoisted the sails after crossing the Baie de Fos and had a good 6 hours before it dropped in the evening and we finished the journey under engine. We arrived in Porquerolles at 00h15 (Caryn having slept a few hours) and proceeded to anchor. It was the first time that we had been here and discovered in the morning the reason we had had so much trouble (4 attempts before we got a grip) the seabed was covered in grass. Eventually at 01h15 we were able to turn off the engine and get to bed. It was the perfect day to unwind and get used to being able to do what we want with no constraints.
Next morning we woke to brilliant sunshine but the water was too cold to take a swim. Instead we wandered into the island in the dinghy to pick up some stores and odd items we still needed. We decided to treat ourselves to a lunch out and a beer (at the prices on the island not something we will be doing too often!).
Svein checked the weather forecast and the winds were not right to proceed to Corsica so we enjoyed the scenery and worked a little on the boat whilst Svein checked out the two outboard engines for the dinghy. The next day the forecast was still not good with too much head wind so we again went into town for a walk and in the late afternoon took the dinghy to the beach where Caryn had the first, if short, swim of the year.

The final countdown has begun, All last urgent last minute jobs have been completed and we are ready to start our new adventure. Thursday was Caryn’s last working day and it was spent getting her replacement up ad running and finishing off the remaining work. Alex has joined us for a few days and has been a great help. He will leave tomorrow in our faithful Volvo so it too is starting a new adventure.

We had a flag cermony this evening where we lowered the Norwegian flag and hoisted the French.

We are now ready to set sail for new adventures under the French flag and should be leaving our home for the last four years in the late morning.

There have been a lot of people wishing us goodbye and all are wondering when we shall be back. It is difficult for them to understand that this chapter is closed and a new one is opening. We hope however that many of them will meet us again in new waters in the future.

Only one week to departure!

The last weeks we have been working hard on the boat.  Inner forstay for storm jib is in place, the solar panels are in place and connected + many other things we should have done years ago.

We have 2 times 85 watt solarpanels and for the last 3 days we have tested without charging from land, and it works very well. We also have a wind generator, so with sun and wind it looks like we will have  enough power.

We desided to change  to French flag. For us there are many advantiges sailing under a Europen flag and as we have address in France it was an easy task to lower the Norwegian flag and hoist the French. I must say it was with mixed feelings, but now we don’t have any problems with customs and VAT.

To leave Port Napoleon, work and friends really is the next step on our adventure.  Now we just sail where the wind takes us as long as we find it enjoyable. Most likly we will stay in the Mediteranien for a few years and first big stop wil be Greece.

Pictures and more details later.