27^th August 2010

What a day. We waited for the wind to drop and late morning hoisted the anchor and started on our way to Samos. The sea was extremely bumpy and the wind very unpredictable. It was supposed to drop but we had gusts of 25 to 30 knots regularly and although we had hoisted the sails it was necessary to motor sail. The distance to Samos was 37 nM until the tip but what we had not realised was that to reach our destination of Pythagorion there was another 33Nm so all in all we were at sea for 10 and a half hours and travelled 60nm. After 3 hours into the journey the auto pilot refused to answer so for the rest of the journey it was good old fashioned hand steering which we took it in turns to do. To crown it all, on our approach to Pythagorion we suddenly saw winds of 25 knots and we had to anchor in the dark as we arrived at 22h30! This we achieved and it was two very tired souls that went to bed after a quick snack.

28thAugust 2010

We awoke bright and rested and were able to take in our surroundings. A large bay protected by a huge breakwater. The water was crystal clear and we sere surrounded by sailing yachts. After a little while the boats started leaving and we were able to move to a better anchorage before taking the dinghy into town to explore. We shopped buying things that we needed (including a Turkish courtesy flag and a new Greek one as our current is now falling to bits). After a quick lunch we returned to the boat and had a well deserved swim. Svein checked out the auto pilot and luckily all it needed was a new fuse. We then decided that the next island was not too far away and we had time to reach it before nightfall. We therefore lifted the anchor and left the island of Samos for Agathonisi. We are now leaving the Sporades islands and heading for the Dodancese islands. We were lucky with the wind and were able to sail for the better part of the journey. We reached the island in the early evening (before sundown) and were able to anchor in a bay not too far from the town. A quick swim and after taking a line ashore we took the dinghy into the village in order to find a taverna for dinner. We chose “Georg Tavern” and had the best and cheapest meal that we have eaten since our arrival in Greece a little over a year ago. Back to the boat and a night’s rest before moving on tomorrow.

29^th August 2010

After a gently morning swim we decided to move on and so hoisted the anchor late morning to head over to the island of Lipso. We had gently SW winds (head on) so motored all the way but on a sea that was like a millpond. We reached the bay of Sokoro in the early afternoon and once again anchored outside the harbour. An intriguing village that counts no less that 16 churches in and around the bay! Whilst we were in Komi we were told that anyone can build a church in their home town providing that no other church with the name already exists there. They are usually built by wealthy people in gratitude for their good fortune.

We will not be staying here long but will be moving further south tomorrow as we want to ensure that we are in a safe place before the meltemi, forecast for the middle of next week, blows up.

30^th August 2010

Last night we took the dinghy into the island and were very pleasantly surprised. We found a bakery open 24 hours a day and as we wandered up the small streets we found little shops tucked away and tavernas. We even found one where people were speaking French and to top it all it had a book swop.

This morning we went back into town and took in all the books that we had read to replace them by new ones. We had a quick lunch in the taverna and then headed back to the boat as we wanted to get under way and head for Leros.

We hoisted the anchor and set out around 14h30. It was a short hop to our destination of Xerkambos on the South tip of Leros but it was a case of motor sailing/sailing as the wind sent gusts off the land. We reached the anchorage at 17h30 so not too long a day. Tomorrow we shall head for the town of Kos as we want to be in the harbour there for a couple of days.

 26^th August 2010

Again a change of plan. The weather forecast was not good for heading south so we decided to take an extra day in Komi and spent it on the beach. Whilst we were sunbathing we were witness to a forest fire in the neighbouring bay which we had nearly gone in to to escape the strong winds. It was the gum trees burning and a helicopter and two fire fighting planes spent the afternoon fighting the flames. They were collecting water from the sea and dumping it on the flames and the surrounding countryside. It lasted well into the evening. As we were leaving the beach to return to the yacht we met up again with Dimitri and his sister. They had expressed an interest in visiting the yacht during our evening together the night before. We took them out to the boat and showed them around. On the way back to the beach the dinghy outboard started to play op so back they came and waited whilst Svein repaired it and was able to take them back ashore.

  21st August 2010

Change of plan. After very bumpy night with the anchor dragging first this morning we moved the boat alongside the quay as the meltemi had picked up during the night and we were like a corkscrew on the water. Our plan to sail to Mitlini to stock up had to be revised so we took the bus instead. Up hills and down vales we drove through the island and after a little over an hour reached the capital. We were lucky in that the shop (AB) was next to the bus station so we did not have too far to carry our purchases. On our return to Plomari we cooked a farewell dinner for Ronny and Lisa who were leaving the next day.

22nd August 2010

The meltemi was still blowing so we stayed put but were bounced around much less. We took advantage of the water and did a wash load but otherwise took it easy and planned our route.

23^rd August 2010

After visiting the port police and paying our dues we got the transit log back and we left Plomari late morning heading South. We were unable to sail but did motor sail until we reached the island of Oinousses to the east of Khios. We anchored outside the harbour in the early afternoon and after our anchor dram took a swim in water that was a good deal colder that what we had been used to up to then but still crystal clear. We took a quick trip round the town but did not find much of interest. We have decided to stay another day here to relax after our busy week.

24^th Augut 2010

After a quiet morning we took the dinghy into town and decided to explore the back streets. We wandered round and found some houses for sale and other that had obviously been recently renovated. Apparently the island is the home of wealthy shipping magnates who are less known that than Onassis but a great deal wealthier. The renovation work on the quay and its surroundings certainly leaves the impression that money is being spent here.

25^th August 2010

We lifted the anchor and left the island of Oinousses. We were able to sail all day until we reached the outskirts of Komi (Khios) when the wind died and we had to finish the journey by engine: We anchored outside the beach and after a few hours took the dinghy into town to explore. On our way in we “rescued” a young couple who had managed to get a rope tangled round the propeller of their jetski. We towed them into the beach. After investigation it was impossible to repair in the water so Svein towed them over to the fishing harbour where the jetski was taken out of the water and Svein repaired it (not without having to return to the boat to collect the appropriate tools)!!! Tomorrow we continue our journey south and hopefully will be in the vicinity of Samos.

13^th August 2010

We have decided to stay another day at anchor. We started the day with a long swim and then got down to some household tasks (defrosting the fridge). There was a great deal of unusual activity at the taverna: tables were being brought out together with chairs and there were so many that we were convinced there was going to be a wedding party. We did not dare go ashore to investigate but decided to wait and see what transpired. It was another sultry day so we also decided to try and sleep on deck where we hoped it might be a bit cooler. As evening wore on people started arriving but nothing seemed to be happening until around 22h00. Then there was Greek music and singing But we could see no wedding party. Caryn was lulled to sleep by the music so Svein took the dinghy and went ashore to investigate. It transpired that there was a concert in progress with 6 professional musicians who also sang together with a group of dancers performing traditional dances. Svein filmed quite a bit of the concert and has put it out on Youtube. We had a rather restless night sleeping on deck despite the fact that we had the stars for company – probably not an experience we will try again.

14^th August 2010

We must now move on and reach the harbour of Plomari so that we are installed when our friends Lisa and Ronny from ‘Sweden arrive. We hoisted the anchor and made our way out of the bay. After a 3 hour journey we arrived at the harbour. A big surprise awaited us as we found that there was one other boat there but the visitors pontoon no longer existed. We moored up on the town quay and hoped our anchor had taken. We treated ourselves to a late lunch at the taverna next to us and then proceeded to wait for the temperature to drop before we ventured out to explore the town. We had to wait until quite late as the temperature is still in the upper 30s around 21h00. There are many quiet back streets, not many tourists and overall the town is very pleasant. It was a eventful night as the wind blew up and our anchor started to drag. Svein solved the problem temporarily by putting out another anchor but we will have to re anchor tomorrow morning.

15^th August 2010

Having discovered that there is no laundry in the town we had to set to and do some serious washing that we had been holding back on – the sheets and towels. We put them into soak and then carried on with washing the boat in and out in preparation for the visitors. Once the washing was hanging out and the wind had dropped it was time to re anchor. We duly pulled in both anchors but then got stuck on the flimsy anchor rope that a small motor boat had put out right across the harbour. Svein dived to release it from both the rudder and the keel and we were able to anchor again but this time using the two anchors one behind the other to give us more stability. As it was very hot work we did not have the courage to cook a meal so ate out again and went to bed with the knowledge that all was ready.

16^th August 2010

We waited most of the day quietly on the boat and Lisa and Ronny arrived at 16h00. We sat on the boat catching up on the news as we had not seen them since 2006. We then went ashore and had a quiet dinner in our local taverna.

17^th August 2010

Temperatures are still very high and there is not much air in the harbour. Instead of hanging around in town we took the dinghy and went and joined Lisa and Ronny at their hotel on the beach. We spent a very lazy day sunning ourselves and generally relaxing with plenty of swimming. We also enjoyed a Greek music evening in the local taverna.

20^th August 2010

Visiting the beach has been the procedure for the last couple of days with plenty of swimming to cool down and tomorrow we will prepare the boat for our departure on Saturday. We did however spend the evening with Ronny and Lisa and ate dinner at their hotel where there was a Greek orchestra. Svein managed to distinguish himself again. We have not decided where we are making for yet but will probably be going South.

8^th August 2010

After a lazy morning shopping, filling the water tank and catching up with the family on Skype we hoisted the anchor at 13h45 and starting making our way towards the island of Alonnisos about 17NM further on. As soon as we left the harbour we were able to hoist the sails and only had to start the engine when we came to the tip of the Skopelos. The scenery was spectacular with steep cliffs covered in olive trees dropping to the blue water. We crossed over to Alonnisos and by 17h45 we were anchored in Ormus Roumousi. Again a small bay with 2 other boats anchored here and clear water. A small settlement on land but for any shopping one has to go to the neighbouring town of Patitri. It is our plan to stay here until Wednesday so we shall explore on land tomorrow.

9^th August 2010

We are still on the boat at 10h00 as we are experiencing our first thunderstorm and rain. The rain is pelting down so it is a good test to see if the work done on the deck has been successful. It would appear so. It has given me time to update the accounts and do some chores in the boat as it is cool enough to stay indoors. Svein has also worked on the fuel tank. He has measured it so that we now have its exact capacity – a pleasant surprise to find that it contains 30 litres more than we thought and we have been able to calculate our average fuel consumption so far this trip. Jolly glad that we are not on the water today.

As soon as the rain had stopped we emptied the dinghy (approx 50 litres had collected in it) and then put the washing to soak in the collected rainwater.
We then proceeded to walk over the hill to Patitri. There we browsed and bought the postcards for the family (who receive one from every port of call) and then found a wifi cafe. Svein collected the latest weather forecast and we braced ourselves for the walk back. We returned to the boat at 15h30 and proceeded to rinse and hang out the washing. We then had a well deserved swim. In the late afternoon Svein took the dinghy into shore to deliver the rubbish and take some photos as we had forgotten the camera earlier in the day. We shall have a dinner on board tonight and tomorrow we shall make our way to Skyros. This will be our last island before we make the crossing over to Lesbos.

10^th August 2010

As we had made the boat ready the night before we were able to leave early for our crossing to Skyros. We hoisted the main and mizzen before lifting the anchor and headed out of the bay. The wind was right but we motored sailed for 90 minutes in order to charge the batteries as the clouds the previous day had cheated us of our full charge. Once the engine was stopped we sailed on a comfortable tack throughout the day with the wind speed varying between 10 and 15 knots until we reached the island of Skyros. Here we encountered such strong gusts that we were obliged to lower the main and bring in the genoa. We carried on under engine and once we had gone through the narrow pass discovered the town of Limaria. With the gusts blowing there was no way we were going to try to go to quay so we headed for the anchorage just to the North of the town. When we arrived there was one other boat but by the end of the evening we had 7 sail boats and 4 hugh “gin palaces” in the bay. At least it meant good business for the local taverna on the beach.

11^th August 2010

We are staying here for another day to be sure of the best weather forecast for the crossing to Lesbos so bright and not too early we took the dinghy into town and caught the local bus up to the Chora. This delightful town is built on the top of a hill (originally from where the territory was defended) so we climbed up through the narrow streets windowshopping. We also managed to collect some money from the ATM and spent some on the local speciality – embroidery – for which the island is renowned. We then caught a bus back to Limaria and went in search of internet. The cafe was just beside the ferry quay we had an enlightening few hours whilst the ferry discharged and then reloaded the passengers and cars. It was a never ending ballet of comings and goings but eventually everyone got on board and the ferry was able to leave. We are not sure of its destination but it seems to do at least two rotations a day.

The latest weather forecast confirms that tomorrow is the best time to cross to Lesbos so we shall be leaving early to make the 16 hour crossing and be there is time to greet our Swedish friends.

12^th August 2010

We made it. We have reached Lesbos. After a very early start (03h00) when we left the anchorage on Skyros we motorsailed/sailed all day. The tack was tight and the wind played games but all n all it was a good crossing. We saw absolutely no other sailboats but danced among the cargoes on two different occasions. We reached our anchorage in the bay of Apothekes at 18h55 after a 16-hour crossing and an 84 NM journey. There were no other boats in the anchorage. It is a quiet fishing hamlet surrounded by land with a very narrow entrance into the bay. The breeze, bringing the heat of the land, can really be felt but the sea is not far away to cool off in. We treated ourselves to a fish dinner in the local taverna and although our pockets are feeling the pinch it was well worth it after such a good day. We are undecided as to whether we shall stay another night here or go into the harbour but the thought of one week in a harbour is a little daunting at the moment.