15^th September 2010

We have left Chalki mid morining after doing some shopping and starting making our way to Lindos on Rhodes island. After the shelter of the bay we motorsailed (sometimes reaching 9.6 knots!) in heavy swell for several hours until we rounded the head of Ak Prasson. From then on to Lindos we were able to sail with a good wind and very good speed (6 knots) until we dropped our anchor in the bay of Lindos in the early evening. We are not sure how long we shall be staying here but must visit the castle this time as we missed out when we were here in 1994 as we were trying to get water for the charter boat.

We went ashore and wandered up the steep hill and through the town getting our bearings. The streets are full of tourists and tourist shops. However we did see some fantastic buildings dating from the 16^th and 18^th centuries that are still inhabited. The 18^th century house had originally belonged to the current owner’s grandmother and had on display 400 year old pottery plates as well as a 40kg embroidered bed canopy that was used on wedding nights. Apparently there are only 3 in existence now. We found a laundry that also had an enormous library that sold or exchanged secondhand books. This was Ali Baba’s cavern for Caryn who will be returning to find some new reading material.

The next day we returned to the town by a different route (the streets really steep with lots of steps) and found our way back to the laundry. Caryn spent some time exchanging her books and stocking up on new ones. We then meandered back down to the beach where we had a leisurely lunch overlookng the bay.

We have decided to stay an extra day just relaxing, swimming in the quiet bay off the town and just watching the bustle of the tripper boats, coming from Rhodes, that discharge them onto the town for a few hours thereby considerably swelling the locals and holiday population for a few hours every day.

19^th September 2010

Time to move on so around 11h00 we hoisted the anchor and left the bay of Lindos. Our destination today in the town of Rhodes. Here we want to see the possibilities of a winter mooring. We motorsailed up the coast in very light winds until we reached the head Ak Voudhi where we met 25m/s winds from 0. We anchored outside the harbour after a 3 hour journey and went for a swim.

We launched the dinghy and took it into the fishing harbour so that we could see and explore the town. We meandered around the old town and eventually stopped and treated ourselves to a dinner at a restaurant on one of the old cobbled streets and then returned to the boat for a good sleep:

The next day we first checked out the harbour and at the end of the quay saw a Norwegian flag. Svein stopped for a chat and this gave us the information as to who was the harbour master. He was running around on his scooter directing the different arrivals but we managed to stop him and ask when it would be possible to spend a night in the marina. We were told to call him on channel 9 in the afternoon for an update. We left the marina and walked off in search of the company A1. We walked past the ferry and commercial harbours and in the end discovered that they had moved offices our of town. So instead we went in search of the tourist office. It was very necessary to take some food on board and as the town has a wide variety of shops we needed the information as the best way to get to them. On our way we purchased a map and then found the tourist office. Here we got very valuable information concerning the two Lidl shops and the AB supermarket on the outskirts of town as well as other food shops in the town itself, We set off to explore the Pappou (Coop) supermarket and this took us into the new town. The town has a wide variety of shops (for all tastes) and seems very pleasant. We also picked up bus timetables as this would also be necessary for our next excursions. We then returned to the boat and contacting the harbour. We managed to get a slot for the next morning so spent a second night at anchor.

The next morning we were called up on the VHF and were met at the harbour entrance and directed to our mooring. All went well and as we were safely moored we then started on our shopping expedition. As the first bus station redirected us to the local buses we called in at another tourist information centre on our way there to learn which bus would take us to our destination. We eventually boarded the bus and a very helpful driver told us where to get off. We had travelled to the outskirts of the town into an industrial zone but we found our shops very easily and did our big shop. Heavily laden we walked back to the bus stop to wait for the return bus. On the way we passed a car wash and as there was a taxi being washed Caryn asked him the cost of the taxi ride to the harbour. For 7 euros (an extra cost of 5 euros compared to the bus ride) we saved on time, energy and were driven directly to the boat where we were unable to load. All in all a very satisfactory day.

The next day we were unable to secure a second night in harbour so as the wind was rising we left our mooring and returned to our anchorage where we stayed for another night. Svein wandered off to the chandler to buy a few bits and pieces and in particular a chain lock so that we could add an extra 10 metres length to our main anchor chain. We also watched the ballet of cruise ships that visited the island. Some days as many as 5. These were manoeuvred into place by either one or two tugs who then repeated the performance when they left as the end of the visit as no ship stayed longer than 12 hours in harbour. One day we saw the 2 Club Mediterannean boats together with Royal Caribbean cruise ship Navigator of the Sea.

23^rd September 2010

As we had spent our time gleaning information and shopping we had not had time to visit the old town or take any photos so on our last day (for the time being) in Rhodes we went and wandered round the old town. We only covered a fraction of it but found some very interesting streets that were off the beaten track and these we were able to study in the shade. We returned to the new market for a quick drink (prices here are much more affordable and the people are very friendly). We met a Finnish waitress who gave us lots of tips about the town and what it was like in the winter. Svein had already got the price from the harbour office so we hope to get a place in early December. We returned to the boat and after a quick lunch we hoisted the anchor and set out for the island of Simi. We had head winds all the way and a fairly bumpy sea but by late afternoon we were safely anchored in the Bay of Marathouda for the night.

9th September 2010

We prepared to leave and by midday we were heading out of the harbour for Tilos. Unfortunately we did not have much wind but choppy seas and as it was a short distance we anchored in the bay round 16h00. We were anxious to visit the town and see the changes that had taken place since our first visit in 1994 on our first charter in Greece. Many changes had taken place and to start with the harbour had been improved with laid moorings but it is still very small, However the taverna on the quay that had given us water, showers and a memorable meal no longer existed. The building was there but it had become holiday flats. The town was also full of expatriates and holiday makers mainly from the UK but some also from Germany. We were a little disappointed but I suppose it is only to be expected.

We had intended to leave the next day but on wandering down to the harbour again we discovered that the Cruising Association flotilla en route for Crete was coming in and as “Rosa di Venti” who we had wintered with in Messolonghi was participating we decided to wait until their arrival to greet them. In the end they were faster than us and they came out to the boat in their dinghy. We caught up with each other’s news but unfortunately did not see them before our departure as they were not on board when we called on them later in the evening.

11^th September 2010

It is time to move on and we are heading for Chalki. This is also an island we visited in 1994 and expect to find many changes there also. We had a good sail and managed to find a spot on the jetty on our second attempt. There was a side wind and on the first attempt Svein had forgotten to check the depth and we had dropped our anchor in 20 m so needless it did not take on the first try!

We shall be here for a few days as there is a strong meltemi forecast for Monday. We were invited for coffee aboard “Cadenza” before they left. They will be wintering in Crete together with “Rosa di Venti”. We changed our mooring the next morning when the two other sail boats had left the quay as we wanted to be on the right side for the expected wind. Once we were settled in we started to explore the town on foot. Very narrow streets that hug the hillside and many houses being restored for the tourists although quite a few are still abandoned. During our stay we have covered the whole town and taken many photos. One of the things that has struck us is the clarity of the water even at 20m! The people are friendly but it is obvious that the holiday season is over for the town although there are still a few holiday makers scattered. We have been very impressed by the ferries that are entering the harbour. They are getting bigger and bigger and they manoeuvre with such facility in such tight spaces. We will probably be moving on tomorrow for Rhodes but all will depend on the weather.

With a nasty weather forecast we decided to stay another day in Chalki. Svein did some odd jobs on the boat and we met an English couple on board “Miranda” who winter in Marmaris Yacht harbour and only had good things to say about it.

3^rd September 2010

Time to say goodbye to Terr Iona who will be wintering in Tunisia this year and to head for Nisyros where we will meet up with “Sybaris”. Although NW winds were forecast we got W and in addition had some very choppy seas for the short journey to Nisyros. After a short journey we were able to moor in Pali harbour (despite the cross wind) safely and will now be here for the next week.

4^th September 2010

Per has returned from his travels but Elly is still away. We spent a while getting our bearings and relaxing by going to the nearby beach for a swim as it is no longer possible to swim in the harbur. Very nice harbour at a fraction of the price of Kos and the surroundings are better also. Many German boats but most people use it as an overnight stop.

We have worked on the website, had some good meals in the local restaurant and been every day to the beach to swim and read our books. Svein has also helped Per with some maintenance on his boat.

We have decided to hire a scooter to visit the island. We duly set off (with a very dubious Caryn as pillion) and climbed the hills up to the crater that forms the central part of the island. Needless to say Caryn had problems so whilst she waited at the top Svein continued down to the crater to get his photos. We then continued on to visit the mountain village of Emporio. A dellightful place carved ut of the rocks and perched high on the top of the crater rim. We wandered around the streets but unfortunately not many inhabitants. Many derelict stone houses but those that are being restored are being beautifully done. We then went to Mandraki (the capital) and met Per who had come to collect Elly off the ferry. On returning to Pali we discovered that there was a festival/party in Emporio that same evening so we organised a hire car to go up there. No way Caryn was getting on a scooter again and certainly not in the dark. Mike at the firm “Eagle’s Nest” was very helpful and gave us a car for a very good price. It was a good evening with good food and very good music and plenty of locals dancing in the village square.

We had long discussions with Per and Elly concerning the Red Sea as a possible alternative to wintering in Greece and Turkey and it only remains for us to do the calculations to see what it possible.

Per and Elly leave today (08-09) to go to Simi and then Marmaris before heading for Cyprus. We are here for another day and have spent it quietly on the boat doing the last minute jobs (washing, epoxy the saloon hatch). We leave for Tilos tomorrow which is a short hop and will then continue to Khalki and Alimia before reaching Rhodes. We have really enjoyed Nisyros and hope to be back here again another time.

31^st August 2010

We got an early start to be sure that we reached Kos harbour in good time to get a place. By late morning we had arrived as were able to moor next to “Terr Iona” (Katy and Daniel) who had wintered in Mesolonghi. We connected up to electricity and water and got our bearings. As we shall be here for a few days we got out the bicycles and got a map of the town.

The next morning we found the laundry (the first since we had left Mesolonghi), window shopped, wandered through the old town and bought a few groceries. Katy and Daniel came over for a drink and we ended up having pesto pasta quite late in the evening.

The next day we cycled down to Kos Marina to enquire about prices and although the harbour looked good it was expensive and we were not impressed by the welcome in the office. We will not be choosing Kos for the winter.

27^th August 2010

What a day. We waited for the wind to drop and late morning hoisted the anchor and started on our way to Samos. The sea was extremely bumpy and the wind very unpredictable. It was supposed to drop but we had gusts of 25 to 30 knots regularly and although we had hoisted the sails it was necessary to motor sail. The distance to Samos was 37 nM until the tip but what we had not realised was that to reach our destination of Pythagorion there was another 33Nm so all in all we were at sea for 10 and a half hours and travelled 60nm. After 3 hours into the journey the auto pilot refused to answer so for the rest of the journey it was good old fashioned hand steering which we took it in turns to do. To crown it all, on our approach to Pythagorion we suddenly saw winds of 25 knots and we had to anchor in the dark as we arrived at 22h30! This we achieved and it was two very tired souls that went to bed after a quick snack.

28thAugust 2010

We awoke bright and rested and were able to take in our surroundings. A large bay protected by a huge breakwater. The water was crystal clear and we sere surrounded by sailing yachts. After a little while the boats started leaving and we were able to move to a better anchorage before taking the dinghy into town to explore. We shopped buying things that we needed (including a Turkish courtesy flag and a new Greek one as our current is now falling to bits). After a quick lunch we returned to the boat and had a well deserved swim. Svein checked out the auto pilot and luckily all it needed was a new fuse. We then decided that the next island was not too far away and we had time to reach it before nightfall. We therefore lifted the anchor and left the island of Samos for Agathonisi. We are now leaving the Sporades islands and heading for the Dodancese islands. We were lucky with the wind and were able to sail for the better part of the journey. We reached the island in the early evening (before sundown) and were able to anchor in a bay not too far from the town. A quick swim and after taking a line ashore we took the dinghy into the village in order to find a taverna for dinner. We chose “Georg Tavern” and had the best and cheapest meal that we have eaten since our arrival in Greece a little over a year ago. Back to the boat and a night’s rest before moving on tomorrow.

29^th August 2010

After a gently morning swim we decided to move on and so hoisted the anchor late morning to head over to the island of Lipso. We had gently SW winds (head on) so motored all the way but on a sea that was like a millpond. We reached the bay of Sokoro in the early afternoon and once again anchored outside the harbour. An intriguing village that counts no less that 16 churches in and around the bay! Whilst we were in Komi we were told that anyone can build a church in their home town providing that no other church with the name already exists there. They are usually built by wealthy people in gratitude for their good fortune.

We will not be staying here long but will be moving further south tomorrow as we want to ensure that we are in a safe place before the meltemi, forecast for the middle of next week, blows up.

30^th August 2010

Last night we took the dinghy into the island and were very pleasantly surprised. We found a bakery open 24 hours a day and as we wandered up the small streets we found little shops tucked away and tavernas. We even found one where people were speaking French and to top it all it had a book swop.

This morning we went back into town and took in all the books that we had read to replace them by new ones. We had a quick lunch in the taverna and then headed back to the boat as we wanted to get under way and head for Leros.

We hoisted the anchor and set out around 14h30. It was a short hop to our destination of Xerkambos on the South tip of Leros but it was a case of motor sailing/sailing as the wind sent gusts off the land. We reached the anchorage at 17h30 so not too long a day. Tomorrow we shall head for the town of Kos as we want to be in the harbour there for a couple of days.