It was time to move and start our approach to Nidri. We left Argostoli late morning with the intention of sailing up the West coast of Cephalonia to anchor off a small place called Asso. Luck was with us and we had the right wind so we sailed up the coast and for the first time our sailing hours exceeded our engine hours for the day. However around 17h00 the wind dropped and as we were near a bay called Atheras we decided to anchor there for the night. Bliss after the busy harbour and the sightseers. No other boat, a few fishermen going about their business and the goats on the hills. We were able to take a leisurely swim in clear blue water.

Here we start the next stage of our adventure This is a busy tourist town (mainly English) with lots of bars and shops and pedestrians walking along the harbour front, so it is a little like being in a goldfish bowl as the boat is examined and commented on and even used as a background for the “folks back home” despite the fact that we are on board!!! The shops are well equipped and everything that is needed can be found to hand.

The Authorities are also very helpful. We went to register and a uniformed coast guard told us that as it was Friday and the tax office (where one of the payments has to be made) was closed until Monday he had not seen us and we should wait until we arrived in the next island to register. We wholly agreed and took ourselves off to explore the town and sort out the eternal problem of a phone card from yet another country and to get hold of internet to catch up on emails. We also treated ourselves to a Greek lunch for the costly sum of 18.00 euros for 2 including drinks!!!!!!!

We have now officially registered the boat in Greek waters and it took us just 3 hours and visiting 3 different offices.  

Yesterday afternoon we experienced an unexpected Easterly wind that gave us gusts of 35knots in the harbour so there was fun and games with anchor chains and extra springs to ensure that everybody was safely moored and not in any danger.

We shall stay here until we get our plans clear as we still have two weeks before we need to be in Nidri for the celebration.   

After calculating the time to catch the stream going from North to South in the Messina Strait we left Tropea at 06h00 and made our way South. We entered the Strait right on time and were making over 8 knots (engine 6, mizzen 1 and stream over 2). In the first part of the Strait there was very little merchant traffic but we were highly entertained by the fishermen on their strange boats (see photos) who were chasing swordfish and trying to harpoon them. Definitely not a job for Caryn!
As soon as we reached Reggi de Calabri the wind came at last and we quickly changed the genoa so that we could take full advantage of it and managed to sail for 3 hours. We rounded the toe of Italy (unfortunately with the engine running as the wind did not last long) and began the crossing over to Greece. We had calculated that it would take us 48 hours from Tropea
During the first night we managed to get in just over 4 hours sailing but most of the crossing we had to motorsail. The sea was very choppy and there was a good deal of swell which did not make for the most comfortable of journeys. However in the afternoon of the second day we were able to hoist the sails again and we managed to sail for nearly 6 hours.
Caryn got her monthly haircut which was successful despite the swell!
Another night at sea with the risk of a thunderstorm this time (fortunately it went much further North) and by the next morning we still had a few hours left before we would see the Greek coast.
It came into view eventually and we made our way to Argostoli harbour in order to register our entry to Greece. We moored on the town quay at 11h30 local time and took a well earned rest after a long and tiring crossing.
Wind is such a fickle thing. We have several weather forecast sites and they all agreed that the wind for these dates would be SW 3 to 5 that should have given us the perfect crossing under sail. We met everything but.
In the 942miles we have come in 173 hours we have motored/motorsailed for 145 hours and managed to sail for 28 hours!!!!!!. However our average speed has been just under 6knots.

We moored at the fuel quay for the night as there was no sign of life in the harbour and we did not want to venture in to find a berth.
A guard came and inspected the vessel from outside whilst talking on his mobile but we were left in peace for the night. The next morning whilst waiting for the fuel quay to open we explored the harbour.
It is well laid out and even has an open air theatre but it did not seem to be very active and was already showing signs of wear and tear.
People were obviously getting it up and running for the season so everything was not open. It seems a good harbour and we know of people who have used it and were very happy.
After filling up the diesel tank (to be sure that we had enough for the next stage) we went out and anchored off the beach. Here we swam and relaxed and Svein even made a cooling air system using PC fans. It is now installed in the saloon and is very efficient and becoming very necessary.
We got an early night in preparation of the next stage of the journey.

After two nights here and a full quota of diesel and water on board we set off for the last stop before we attack the Messina Strait and the crossing to Greece.
No matter how careful we are with the weather forecasts we always seem to get head winds or no wind at all. This was the case today and we engine all the way to Tropea arriving at 22h30